Close-up of a poorly chain-stitched hem on a pair of Levi's denim jeans, showing misalignment and puckering.
/

Vet Your Jeans Expert: All Denim Tailors Are Not Equal

At Williamsburg Garment Co., we get a lot of jeans sent to us to fix the work of other tailors. Here's an example of bad chain-stitching, and why it happened.

At Williamsburg Garment Company, we often receive jeans with requests to correct the work of other tailors or so-called denim specialists. Just because a tailor labels themselves as a denim specialist doesn’t mean they have the necessary expertise or use the right equipment. Moreover, owning a chain stitching machine is not synonymous with knowing how to use it correctly or understanding its intricacies.

Take these jeans as an example. Upon inspection, we discovered numerous issues with the chain stitching. Firstly, the thread tension was excessively high. Secondly, the sewing alignment was significantly off.

It’s possible they saw our article on how the roping effect is created by the seams not being aligned and overcomplicated the misalignment. Alternatively, it could just be a case of very sloppy sewing, resulting in the alignment being too far off and compounded by poor tension.

A close-up of bad chain stitching on the hem of a pair of Levi's denim jeans shows misalignment to create a roping effect, but instead causes a bad case of puckering.

To further exaggerate the twisting, they likely didn’t press the hem. After washing, the fabric turned and puckered into this exaggerated form. Lastly, while the thread size might not directly cause the issue, its thinness and incompatibility with the original thread size only serve to highlight the problem.

We took these jeans and undid the previous poor hemming. Our team applied new chain-stitch hemming with precise alignment and appropriate thread tension, ensuring a smooth and professional finish. The corrected hem not only restored the jeans’ appearance but also maintained the integrity of the original design, as shown in the photo below.

Close-up of a poorly chain-stitched hem on a pair of Levi's denim jeans, showing misalignment and puckering.

When searching for a denim expert to work on your treasured jeans, the closest option may not be the best option. Check reviews, and most importantly, look at photos or examples of their work before deciding. Remember, just because someone has a chain stitching machine doesn’t mean they know how to use it properly.

The transformation from the poorly sewn hem to the expertly corrected one is a testament to our commitment to quality and precision. We understand the intricacies of denim and the importance of every stitch, ensuring that your jeans receive the care and expertise they deserve.

Previous Story

Rupee Mango Wheat Ale Review: One of the Best Mango Beers

Latest from Denim