Denim

Workers sewing denim at the TCB Jeans factory in Kojima, Japan, surrounded by sewing machines and cut fabric panels
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Rebuilding Retail the Right Way – Why TCB Jeans Was the Perfect First Choice

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At Williamsburg Garment Company, we’ve spent years perfecting denim fit. Whether it’s hemming selvedge, tapering heavyweight raw denim, or completely re-engineering the shape of jeans, we’ve become the go-to name in denim alterations across the U.S. Recently, we’ve taken what we do best and combined it with something new—but long overdue: selling premium jeans from other top-tier brands directly through our platform and studio.

This is not your typical retail expansion. What sets WGC apart is that we’re not just a place to buy jeans—we’re the place to make them fit perfectly. No other denim retailer in the country offers this level of specialized tailoring in-house. Big-box stores might provide alterations, but their tailors aren’t trained in denim construction. While specialty denim shops may offer high-quality jeans, their tailors typically only perform basic chainstitch hemming and maybe repairs. Williamsburg Garment Company is something entirely different. We are a small denim factory. We sew jeans from scratch. We have the machines, the expertise, and a team led by a legendary designer who understands every part of a jean’s construction.

Now, customers can shop from a curated collection of hard-to-find brands and have them tailored by the most capable denim experts in the country—before the jeans ever leave our shop.

The first brand in our new lineup was TCB Jeans, a company out of Kojima, Japan that builds its reputation on craftsmanship, historical research, and dedication to the original spirit of American denim. TCB specializes in reproduction jeans—faithful recreations of denim from the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s, made with remarkable attention to period-correct details. That means everything from the fabric weave to the thread gauge, from the rivets to the paper patch, is chosen to match garments from the original era.

We were introduced to TCB by one of our team members, Amalia Nissan, who began working with us after returning from a sourcing trip to Japan. Already a fan of TCB’s 50s jeans—and a serious denim enthusiast—she took it upon herself to meet with factories, tour workshops, and build relationships with makers who live and breathe reproduction denim. TCB stood out from the rest—not just for their product, but for their clear dedication to denim that’s made to be worn hard and lived in.

That philosophy matches our own. We don’t believe in precious jeans meant to sit on a shelf. We believe in garments that are worn, faded, repaired, and reshaped over time. And we believe the right pair of jeans doesn’t just fit—it becomes part of your life.

By offering TCB Jeans at Williamsburg Garment Company, we’re creating a new experience for denim lovers. You no longer have to buy jeans from one shop and send them to another for proper alterations. Now you can buy and tailor in one place—with no compromises in craftsmanship, detail, or fit.

Shop or find out more about TCB Jeans →
TCB was the perfect brand to kick off our retail expansion—not just because of their product, but because of what they represent. Their commitment to historical accuracy, quality craftsmanship, and denim that’s meant to be truly worn mirrors everything we stand for at Williamsburg Garment Company. Like us, they believe jeans should be built with purpose, designed with care, and lived in fully. Starting with TCB set the tone for the kind of brands we’re proud to carry: those that value authenticity, make no compromises in construction, and understand that the best jeans are the ones that become part of your everyday life.

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A hand measuring the leg opening on a pair of blue jeans using a soft measuring tape, showing the proper technique for accurate measurement.
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How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans | Step-by-Step Guide

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The leg opening measurement is a critical factor in how your jeans fit over your shoes and shape your overall look. Whether you’re shopping online, comparing styles, or getting your jeans tapered, knowing how to measure the leg opening properly ensures accurate sizing and a better fit.

In this guide, we’ll break down the correct method for measuring the leg opening on jeans—just like we do in our professional denim alteration shop at Williamsburg Garment Company.

📏 What Is the Leg Opening on Jeans?

The leg opening is the width of the bottom hem of a pant leg. This measurement determines how fitted or wide the jeans will fall over your shoes. Slim, straight, bootcut, and wide-leg jeans all have different leg opening sizes, which impact the overall silhouette of the jeans.

🔥 Why Does It Matter?

✅ Helps compare different fits when buying jeans online
✅ Essential for tapering alterations to ensure a balanced look
✅ Impacts how jeans sit on top of shoes

🛠 Step-by-Step: How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans

Follow these simple steps to accurately measure the leg opening of your jeans.

1️⃣ Lay the Jeans Flat

  • Place your jeans on a flat surface, like a table or the floor.
  • Smooth out any wrinkles, but do not stretch the fabric.

🔽 See the diagram below for proper positioning:

[Insert drawing: Jeans laid flat with a focus on the hem area]

2️⃣ Align the Hem Evenly

  • Make sure both layers of fabric at the bottom hem are lined up evenly.
  • Some jeans, especially washed or worn pairs, may have twisting in the leg—try to align them as close to their natural shape as possible.

🔽 Illustration showing the hem properly aligned:

[Insert drawing: Close-up of the bottom hem, ensuring both sides are even]

3️⃣ Measure Across the Bottom Hem

  • Use a soft measuring tape and place it edge to edge across the leg opening.
  • Do not curve or wrap the tape—measure in a straight line.
  • Write down this measurement.

🔽 Example of correct measuring technique:

[Insert drawing: Measuring tape laid straight across the hem from one edge to the other]

4️⃣ Double the Measurement

  • Since jeans are measured flat, you’ll need to double the number to get the full leg opening circumference.
  • Example: If your measurement is 8 inches, the total leg opening is 16 inches.

🚨 Common Mistakes to Avoid

🔴 Not laying the jeans completely flat – Wrinkles and folds can throw off your measurement.
🔴 Measuring diagonally – Always measure straight across for accuracy.
🔴 Ignoring leg twisting – Some jeans may have a twist in the leg seam due to shrinkage or wash effects. Align them properly before measuring.

👖 How the Leg Opening Affects Fit

The leg opening measurement is key to understanding different jean styles:

  • Slim Fit Jeans – Narrow leg opening (usually 12″–14″)
  • Straight Fit Jeans – More room at the ankle (14″–16″)
  • Bootcut Jeans – Slight flare to fit over boots (16″–18″)
  • Wide-Leg Jeans – Loose fit with a larger leg opening (18″+)

📢 Thinking about tapering your jeans? If you want a smaller leg opening, professional tapering is the best way to achieve a clean, proportional fit. Check out our denim tapering service for expert alterations.

🎥 Watch the Video: Measuring the Leg Opening

For a full demonstration, watch our step-by-step video on how to measure the leg opening on jeans featuring Maurice Malone of Williamsburg Garment Company.

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This blog post is now optimized for readability, SEO, and usability with step-by-step instructions and custom drawings to assist readers. I’ll generate the requested illustrations now. Stay tuned! 🎨📏

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Close-up of wet raw denim jeans after washing, highlighting proper denim care techniques.
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Benzak Denim Developers explains thier process on how to wash raw denim jeans

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Washing raw denim has long been a topic of debate. Some purists believe in waiting as long as possible, while others argue that washing enhances the fabric’s character. But knowing how to wash raw denim jeans properly can make all the difference in maintaining the integrity of the denim while preserving those hard-earned fades.

In their latest video, Benzak Denim Developers demonstrate their recommended method for washing raw denim for the first time, using a well-worn pair of BO2 Straight jeans made from their 10-year anniversary denim. They cover everything from prepping your jeans before the wash to selecting the right machine settings—ensuring your denim stays in top shape without unnecessary shrinkage or fading.

If you’ve ever wondered when to wash, why washing matters, or most importantly, how to wash raw denim jeans, this video lays it all out. Watch below to see how a year of wear transforms after a proper wash.

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Hands measuring the inseam of a pair of jeans laid flat on a table, demonstrating the correct technique for how to measure the Inseam on jeans.
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How to Measure the Inseam on Jeans

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When it comes to buying jeans—especially online—getting the right inseam measurement is crucial for a proper fit. Whether you’re checking your size before ordering, comparing different brands, or preparing for hemming, measuring the inseam correctly ensures you won’t end up with jeans that are too short or too long.

In this guide, we’ll break down how to measure the inseam on jeans the right way, just like the professionals. Plus, watch our quick video tutorial featuring Williamsburg Garment Company’s own Maurice Malone, who walks you through the process step by step.

📏 What Is the Inseam on Jeans?

The inseam is the measurement from the crotch seam (where the inner thigh seams meet) down to the hem of the pant leg. It determines the length of your jeans and is one of the most important sizing details when shopping for denim.

🛠 Step-by-Step: How to Measure the Inseam on Jeans

Follow these steps to measure your inseam accurately:

1️⃣ Lay the Jeans Flat

  • Find a flat surface (like a table or the floor) to lay your jeans down.
  • Smooth out any wrinkles, but don’t stretch the fabric.

2️⃣ Start at the Center of the Crotch Seam

  • Place your measuring tape at the center of the crotch seam, between the two stitch lines of the flat-felled seam.
  • This is the center point of the flat-felled seams, which ensures an accurate starting position.

3️⃣ Follow the Natural Shape of the Leg

  • Extend the measuring tape down the inside of the leg, following the natural curve.
  • Avoid pulling the tape too tight or leaving slack—precision matters!

4️⃣ Measure to the Hem

  • Stop at the bottom edge of the hem and take note of the number.
  • This final measurement is your inseam length.

🚨 Common Mistakes to Avoid

🔴 Measuring in a straight line – The inseam follows the natural curve of the leg, so don’t measure at an angle or cut across the fabric.

🔴 Starting at the wrong point – Always measure from the center of the crotch seam, between the stitch lines, not from the seam line or a random point along the leg.

🔴 Ignoring fabric twist – Some jeans, especially washed or vintage styles, may have a slight twist. Follow the intended seam line, not any twisting caused by wear.

👖 Why Accurate Inseam Measurements Matter

If your jeans are too long or too short, it affects both comfort and style. Knowing your inseam helps when:
✅ Buying jeans online – Compare with the brand’s size chart to get the right fit.
✅ Altering your jeans – Get the perfect length when hemming.
✅ Finding the right cut – Different inseams work better for different styles (stacking, cuffing, or a clean break at the shoe).

⚠️ Don’t Assume the Inseam Length on the Tag Is Accurate

When you purchase a pair of jeans, it is highly likely that the inseam length on the tag is not correct. Most brands intentionally make their inseams longer than the labeled length, figuring it’s better to be longer than shorter or to allow for shrinkage after washing or alterations if needed. However, in some cases, brands may even produce inseams that are shorter than labeled—so always measure your jeans instead of trusting the tag.

⚠️ Be Careful When Ordering Hemming on Multiple Jeans

If you’re getting multiple pairs of jeans hemmed, avoid ordering the same inseam length across different styles without considering fit type and rise length.

  • Rise differences matter – Even if two jeans have the same waist measurement, a longer rise will result in an inseam that appears longer. Since both jeans sit at the same position on your body due to the identical waist measurement, the additional rise length means the hem will fall lower on your leg.
  • Waist opening affects inseam fit – The waist opening measurement generally determines where jeans sit on your body. For example, a larger waist measurement will sit lower on the hips compared to a smaller waist, even if the rise is the same. This lower placement causes the inseam to effectively be longer, as the jeans rest further down on your body.

These factors mean that jeans of the same labeled inseam can fit very differently based on their waist and rise measurements. To ensure consistency, always measure each pair individually before choosing a hemming length.

📌 Need Professional Denim Alterations?

At Williamsburg Garment Company, we specialize in professional denim hemming and alterations, ensuring your jeans fit perfectly—no matter the inseam length.

👉 Visit our site for expert hemming & alterations

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In a close-up of a jeans leg with twisting, denim designer Maurice Malone explains why a common denim issue is caused, either by shrinkage or improper sewing.
Denim designer Maurice Malone explains why shrinkage or incorrect sewing causes a common denim issue in a close-up of a twisting jeans leg.
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Why are the legs on my jeans twisting and how to fix it

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Got a twisted leg on your jeans? If one leg seam always seems to drift to the front or back, you’re dealing with a classic issue called “leg twist.” It’s a common problem in denim, often caused by fabric shrinkage or improper sewing.

In our first video, I explain the two main reasons why jeans legs twist: poor sewing at the factory and uneven fabric shrinkage, or sometimes a mix of both.

In this video, I’ll show you exactly how we professionally fix a twisted leg on jeans, ensuring that they fit comfortably with seams that stay straight. Using expert techniques and specialized machinery, we rework the leg (tapering it) to correct the twist, making your jeans feel just right again.

Watch as I walk you through the step-by-step process of how to identify leg twist, why it happens, and what it takes to fix leg twist in jeans effectively.

Whether you’re curious about denim alterations, experiencing a twisted leg on your favorite jeans, or simply want to know how to get your jeans looking right, this video is for you!

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Black-and-white illustration comparing slim-fit and baggy jeans, highlighting differences in inseam fit and rise.
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Hemming 101: Why the Same Inseam Length Can Fit Differently

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We have extensive experience hemming jeans and pants, as well as providing fittings to numerous customers. One of the things we often hear from those who request the same inseam without going through a fitting session is that they ordered the same inseam across their various jeans and pants, but some came out longer or shorter than others. Therefore, when a customer arrives with multiple jeans or pants and requests the same length throughout the styles, we explain why it could be a mistake.

The same inseam length can look different on various styles of jeans and pants. For instance, jeans or pants with identical waist measurements and inseam lengths but different rise measurements will fit differently. A pair with a 1-inch longer rise may result in a hem that falls 1 inch lower.

Similarly, the waist opening measurement affects where the jeans or pants sit on your body. Larger waist openings cause them to sit lower on your hips, making them appear longer even if the rise and inseam are the same.

Moreover, the labeled waist size doesn’t always match the actual waist measurement, and even the same size in the same brand can vary. While the same brand and style are more likely to fit the same, it’s not always guaranteed.

For those seeking consistency in the positioning of their jeans and pants, it is advisable to invest some extra time in separately fitting each pair. It would be a mistake to assume that the same length would yield the same results across styles. Therefore, always measure each pair individually for hemming. 

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