Jeans

Denim Talk banner showing Maurice Malone with sewing machine and laptop teaching how to make jeans live.
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Denim Talk: Real Denim Knowledge, Every Sunday at 5 PM

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Maurice Malone, MakingABrand.co, and Williamsburg Garment Company now present Denim Talk every Sunday at 5 PM.

After the first session, one thing is clear—there’s real interest in learning denim the right way. Not shortcuts, not recycled information, but practical knowledge that comes from actually doing the work.

Every Sunday at 5 PM, I’m on a mission to help rebuild the American-made denim industry, one designer at a time. It starts with reliable education.

Denim Talk is a weekly online meetup, hosted by Marc Esannason of MakingABrand.co, where anyone, from anywhere in the world, can join the conversation. You can ask me anything—jeans construction, design, manufacturing, building a brand, or whatever you’re trying to figure out. If it’s part of the denim business, we’ll get into it.

I’ve been working in this industry since 1984, and most of what I learned came from asking questions, making mistakes, and figuring things out the hard way. The goal now is to pass that knowledge on so others can move faster, avoid common pitfalls, and build something real.

That mission doesn’t stop at conversation.

Through Williamsburg Garment Company, we’ve already started helping new designers take the next step by producing samples and handling small production runs of denim jeans with low minimums. That’s something that’s been missing for a long time—real manufacturing support for small brands trying to get started.

Before jumping into production, I strongly suggest booking time to talk through your plans. We’ve already seen new designers make avoidable mistakes—issues with patterns, construction details, and production readiness that can cost time and money. A quick conversation upfront can save you from going down the wrong path.

It’s also important to clarify—Denim Talk is not the same as Denim Workshop.

Denim Talk is an online meetup focused on discussion, questions, and guidance.

Denim Workshop is a separate, hands-on program where I teach people how to actually make jeans in a real studio environment.

(Links to Denim Workshop will be added here.)

The first Denim Talk session is already available on the MakingABrand YouTube channel and is included below, so you can watch how the conversation works and the types of questions being asked.

Beyond that, I’m starting to build out a resource section here on DenimBMC.com. I’ll be sharing vetted sources for fabrics, labels, trims, machines, and services—companies I’ve worked with or reviewed that can realistically support small brands. The idea is simple: make it easier for designers to find the right partners without wasting time or money.

If you’re serious about denim—or even just trying to understand it better—join me on Sunday.

Denim Talk. Every Sunday at 5 PM.

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Signed handmade jeans with illustrated pocket bag and Williamsburg Garment Company tag, representing the upcoming denim workshop where attendees learn how to make jeans.
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Denim Workshop: Learn How To Make Jeans

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If you’re serious about denim—about understanding how jeans are made, how they’re designed, and how the pieces really come together—this is the workshop you’ve been waiting for.

This fall, I’ll be leading a new Denim Workshop inside the Williamsburg Garment Company studio in Brooklyn. The workshop is produced by Williamsburg Garment Company, Maurice Malone (the brand).

It’s designed for aspiring denim designers, fashion students, and apparel professionals who want real-world experience and hands-on training in how to make jeans using professional machines and methods.

Classes will be held on Wednesdays, 3 PM to 5 PM, starting May 13, 2026. I’ll be teaching live in the same studio where we sew jeans every day for our brands. This is a 9-week course.

If you’re interested, sign up now at MauriceMaloneUSA.com. You can also follow any of our social media channels for updates when enrollment opens.

“Denim Workshop is part of my goal to help inspire and develop the next generation of great denim designers.“

This isn’t a class for hobbyists or home crafters. This is a real-world jean-making and designing workshop, where you will make your own jeans on industrial sewing machines and learn digital pattern making using Tukacad.

You may have tried learning through YouTube or social media videos—but when you’re serious about mastering a craft, you quickly realize that online content can only take you so far. You want to understand the process in real time, ask questions, and get answers that aren’t surface-level. That’s what this workshop is built for.

Over the course of the program, you’ll:

  • Learn how to make jeans using real industrial machines and techniques
  • Understand stitch types, seam construction, and when to use them
  • Watch my team build a full pair of jeans from beginning to end, with full transparency
  • Learn the basics of pattern making and how to adjust fit through sample sewing
  • Construct a fit sample, make corrections, and finalize your own personalized pattern
  • Sew a complete, wearable pair of jeans using professional techniques

You’ll walk away with a finished garment and a real understanding of how jeans are made—not just on paper, but in practice.

Class sizes will be limited so that everyone gets hands-on time and personal guidance. This is an immersive experience, not a passive demo.

Let’s make some jeans.

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Close-up of sewing the center back seam on denim to take in the waist of jeans using a Union Special feed-off-the-arm machine with chainstitching.
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The Professional Way: How to Take In the Waist of Jeans

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If you’ve ever typed how to take in the waist of jeans into Google, you’ve probably seen a lot of DIY tricks—some good, some pretty questionable. But here’s the thing: there’s a world of difference between a quick fix at home and a professional alteration that looks like it came straight from the factory.

At Denim BMC, we know our readers care about denim done right. That’s why we’re sharing a look inside Williamsburg Garment Company’s proven method for taking in the waist on jeans—without darts, shortcuts, or messy seams.

A tailor marks the amount to be removed from the center seam to take in the waist of jeans. Precise measuring ensures a perfect fit and maintains the original shape of the denim.

In this video, owner Maurice Malone walks you through the same technique he developed back in the twenty-teens, when a customer asked him to take in his jeans without leaving any sign of an alteration. Most tailors rely on darts because they don’t have the right industrial machines to handle heavy denim, chainstitch seat seams, and belt loop reattachments. Maurice shows how real pros do it: four specialized machines, careful disassembly, and a factory-finish result that holds up to close inspection.

If you’re serious about your denim, it’s worth seeing how proper waist alterations are done—and why they matter so much if you want your jeans to fit perfectly and still look original.

Order Waist Alterations Online

Watch the video below to see the full process in action and learn why Williamsburg Garment Company is trusted by denim lovers nationwide.

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Workers sewing denim at the TCB Jeans factory in Kojima, Japan, surrounded by sewing machines and cut fabric panels
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Rebuilding Retail the Right Way – Why TCB Jeans Was the Perfect First Choice

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At Williamsburg Garment Company, we’ve spent years perfecting denim fit. Whether it’s hemming selvedge, tapering heavyweight raw denim, or completely re-engineering the shape of jeans, we’ve become the go-to name in denim alterations across the U.S. Recently, we’ve taken what we do best and combined it with something new—but long overdue: selling premium jeans from other top-tier brands directly through our platform and studio.

This is not your typical retail expansion. What sets WGC apart is that we’re not just a place to buy jeans—we’re the place to make them fit perfectly. No other denim retailer in the country offers this level of specialized tailoring in-house. Big-box stores might provide alterations, but their tailors aren’t trained in denim construction. While specialty denim shops may offer high-quality jeans, their tailors typically only perform basic chainstitch hemming and maybe repairs. Williamsburg Garment Company is something entirely different. We are a small denim factory. We sew jeans from scratch. We have the machines, the expertise, and a team led by a legendary designer who understands every part of a jean’s construction.

Now, customers can shop from a curated collection of hard-to-find brands and have them tailored by the most capable denim experts in the country—before the jeans ever leave our shop.

The first brand in our new lineup was TCB Jeans, a company out of Kojima, Japan that builds its reputation on craftsmanship, historical research, and dedication to the original spirit of American denim. TCB specializes in reproduction jeans—faithful recreations of denim from the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s, made with remarkable attention to period-correct details. That means everything from the fabric weave to the thread gauge, from the rivets to the paper patch, is chosen to match garments from the original era.

We were introduced to TCB by one of our team members, Amalia Nissan, who began working with us after returning from a sourcing trip to Japan. Already a fan of TCB’s 50s jeans—and a serious denim enthusiast—she took it upon herself to meet with factories, tour workshops, and build relationships with makers who live and breathe reproduction denim. TCB stood out from the rest—not just for their product, but for their clear dedication to denim that’s made to be worn hard and lived in.

That philosophy matches our own. We don’t believe in precious jeans meant to sit on a shelf. We believe in garments that are worn, faded, repaired, and reshaped over time. And we believe the right pair of jeans doesn’t just fit—it becomes part of your life.

By offering TCB Jeans at Williamsburg Garment Company, we’re creating a new experience for denim lovers. You no longer have to buy jeans from one shop and send them to another for proper alterations. Now you can buy and tailor in one place—with no compromises in craftsmanship, detail, or fit.

Shop or find out more about TCB Jeans →
TCB was the perfect brand to kick off our retail expansion—not just because of their product, but because of what they represent. Their commitment to historical accuracy, quality craftsmanship, and denim that’s meant to be truly worn mirrors everything we stand for at Williamsburg Garment Company. Like us, they believe jeans should be built with purpose, designed with care, and lived in fully. Starting with TCB set the tone for the kind of brands we’re proud to carry: those that value authenticity, make no compromises in construction, and understand that the best jeans are the ones that become part of your everyday life.

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A hand measuring the leg opening on a pair of blue jeans using a soft measuring tape, showing the proper technique for accurate measurement.
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How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans | Step-by-Step Guide

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The leg opening measurement is a critical factor in how your jeans fit over your shoes and shape your overall look. Whether you’re shopping online, comparing styles, or getting your jeans tapered, knowing how to measure the leg opening properly ensures accurate sizing and a better fit.

In this guide, we’ll break down the correct method for measuring the leg opening on jeans—just like we do in our professional denim alteration shop at Williamsburg Garment Company.

📏 What Is the Leg Opening on Jeans?

The leg opening is the width of the bottom hem of a pant leg. This measurement determines how fitted or wide the jeans will fall over your shoes. Slim, straight, bootcut, and wide-leg jeans all have different leg opening sizes, which impact the overall silhouette of the jeans.

🔥 Why Does It Matter?

✅ Helps compare different fits when buying jeans online
✅ Essential for tapering alterations to ensure a balanced look
✅ Impacts how jeans sit on top of shoes

🛠 Step-by-Step: How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans

Follow these simple steps to accurately measure the leg opening of your jeans.

1️⃣ Lay the Jeans Flat

  • Place your jeans on a flat surface, like a table or the floor.
  • Smooth out any wrinkles, but do not stretch the fabric.

🔽 See the diagram below for proper positioning:

[Insert drawing: Jeans laid flat with a focus on the hem area]

2️⃣ Align the Hem Evenly

  • Make sure both layers of fabric at the bottom hem are lined up evenly.
  • Some jeans, especially washed or worn pairs, may have twisting in the leg—try to align them as close to their natural shape as possible.

🔽 Illustration showing the hem properly aligned:

[Insert drawing: Close-up of the bottom hem, ensuring both sides are even]

3️⃣ Measure Across the Bottom Hem

  • Use a soft measuring tape and place it edge to edge across the leg opening.
  • Do not curve or wrap the tape—measure in a straight line.
  • Write down this measurement.

🔽 Example of correct measuring technique:

[Insert drawing: Measuring tape laid straight across the hem from one edge to the other]

4️⃣ Double the Measurement

  • Since jeans are measured flat, you’ll need to double the number to get the full leg opening circumference.
  • Example: If your measurement is 8 inches, the total leg opening is 16 inches.

🚨 Common Mistakes to Avoid

🔴 Not laying the jeans completely flat – Wrinkles and folds can throw off your measurement.
🔴 Measuring diagonally – Always measure straight across for accuracy.
🔴 Ignoring leg twisting – Some jeans may have a twist in the leg seam due to shrinkage or wash effects. Align them properly before measuring.

👖 How the Leg Opening Affects Fit

The leg opening measurement is key to understanding different jean styles:

  • Slim Fit Jeans – Narrow leg opening (usually 12″–14″)
  • Straight Fit Jeans – More room at the ankle (14″–16″)
  • Bootcut Jeans – Slight flare to fit over boots (16″–18″)
  • Wide-Leg Jeans – Loose fit with a larger leg opening (18″+)

📢 Thinking about tapering your jeans? If you want a smaller leg opening, professional tapering is the best way to achieve a clean, proportional fit. Check out our denim tapering service for expert alterations.

🎥 Watch the Video: Measuring the Leg Opening

For a full demonstration, watch our step-by-step video on how to measure the leg opening on jeans featuring Maurice Malone of Williamsburg Garment Company.

📌 Subscribe for more denim fit and alteration guides!

This blog post is now optimized for readability, SEO, and usability with step-by-step instructions and custom drawings to assist readers. I’ll generate the requested illustrations now. Stay tuned! 🎨📏

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Close-up of wet raw denim jeans after washing, highlighting proper denim care techniques.
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Benzak Denim Developers explains thier process on how to wash raw denim jeans

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Washing raw denim has long been a topic of debate. Some purists believe in waiting as long as possible, while others argue that washing enhances the fabric’s character. But knowing how to wash raw denim jeans properly can make all the difference in maintaining the integrity of the denim while preserving those hard-earned fades.

In their latest video, Benzak Denim Developers demonstrate their recommended method for washing raw denim for the first time, using a well-worn pair of BO2 Straight jeans made from their 10-year anniversary denim. They cover everything from prepping your jeans before the wash to selecting the right machine settings—ensuring your denim stays in top shape without unnecessary shrinkage or fading.

If you’ve ever wondered when to wash, why washing matters, or most importantly, how to wash raw denim jeans, this video lays it all out. Watch below to see how a year of wear transforms after a proper wash.

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