Sewing

How to Hem Pants by a Pro

Published on October 21, 2024

When it comes to hemming pants, maintaining the original look is key. Many tailors use what’s known as an “original hem alteration,” where they cut off the hem and reattach it with an added seam. But let’s be honest—that’s a poor man’s alteration technique. It compromises quality, especially for pants that aren’t distressed jeans. Following the manufacturer’s original stitching and details is the only way to ensure a professional result. Anything less can cost you discerning customers once they notice the poor craftsmanship inside their pants.

In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to hem pants professionally. If you have an industrial sewing machine, you’ll be able to follow along—just make sure you have the correct thread and needle sizes. These details matter, and most tailors overlook them.

If you’re using a home machine, the techniques I cover can work for lighter fabrics, but for heavyweight pants or workwear, a home machine won’t cut it. These require heavier thread and larger needles, and home machines typically don’t have the power to punch through tough fabrics like industrial machines do.

For those looking for a trusted professional to hem your pants, you’ve come to the right place. Williamsburg Garment Company is the nationwide leader in denim, workwear, and knit alterations. We specialize in giving you flawless, professional results—without any visible signs of alteration. Using factory-level machines and techniques, we deconstruct and reconstruct garments to preserve their original look and quality.

We may not be the fastest or the cheapest, but we’re committed to providing the best possible fit and finish. And we’ve made it simple to order alterations from anywhere. If you can order pizza online, you can order professional alterations from us. Just head over to WilliamsburgGarment.com and get started with a few clicks.

Denim designer Maurice Malone, owner of Williamsburg Garment Company, sewing a pair of jeans with a Union Special 35800 industrial sewing machin in the tapering alterations process.

Denim/How To

How to taper jeans video by denim designer Maurice Malone

Published on July 7, 2024

This video is a classic. Back in 2018, before we moved into our current location at 67 West Street in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, while working out of the back room inside Brooklyn Denim Co. in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, our intern Emoni Sheldon and I recorded this video to explain how to taper jeans professionally. With the plethora of DIY hack videos out there, I thought it was crucial to show the proper method. It’s been a hit ever since.

We’ve promised an updated, more detailed version is coming, but we’re always under time pressure to get customers’ jeans in and out the door quickly, so we rarely find time for social media posts or other instructional videos—though we’re looking to change that. This video demonstrates our process for tapering jeans with flat-felled inseams. There’s also a faster, simpler process for tapering jeans with overlocked inseam construction, and we promise to record it soon.

Since we recorded this video, we’ve perfected our process, tapering thousands of jeans from a multitude of brands, and we’ve learned what makes each brand different along with their trademark details and construction.

For now, this is still the best video out there if you want to see how it should be done correctly. Everything else is a workaround hack for doing it yourself on sewing machines that are not built for the task.

Close-up of a poorly chain-stitched hem on a pair of Levi's denim jeans, showing misalignment and puckering.

101/Denim

Vet Your Jeans Expert: All Denim Tailors Are Not Equal

Published on July 1, 2024

At Williamsburg Garment Company, we often receive jeans with requests to correct the work of other tailors or so-called denim specialists. Just because a tailor labels themselves as a denim specialist doesn’t mean they have the necessary expertise or use the right equipment. Moreover, owning a chain stitching machine is not synonymous with knowing how to use it correctly or understanding its intricacies.

Take these jeans as an example. Upon inspection, we discovered numerous issues with the chain stitching. Firstly, the thread tension was excessively high. Secondly, the sewing alignment was significantly off.

It’s possible they saw our article on how the roping effect is created by the seams not being aligned and overcomplicated the misalignment. Alternatively, it could just be a case of very sloppy sewing, resulting in the alignment being too far off and compounded by poor tension.

A close-up of bad chain stitching on the hem of a pair of Levi's denim jeans shows misalignment to create a roping effect, but instead causes a bad case of puckering.

To further exaggerate the twisting, they likely didn’t press the hem. After washing, the fabric turned and puckered into this exaggerated form. Lastly, while the thread size might not directly cause the issue, its thinness and incompatibility with the original thread size only serve to highlight the problem.

We took these jeans and undid the previous poor hemming. Our team applied new chain-stitch hemming with precise alignment and appropriate thread tension, ensuring a smooth and professional finish. The corrected hem not only restored the jeans’ appearance but also maintained the integrity of the original design, as shown in the photo below.

When searching for a denim expert to work on your treasured jeans, the closest option may not be the best option. Check reviews, and most importantly, look at photos or examples of their work before deciding. Remember, just because someone has a chain stitching machine doesn’t mean they know how to use it properly.

The transformation from the poorly sewn hem to the expertly corrected one is a testament to our commitment to quality and precision. We understand the intricacies of denim and the importance of every stitch, ensuring that your jeans receive the care and expertise they deserve.

Overlock and flat-felled seam types by highlighting the hem of a pair of jeans sewed with an overlocked inseam on the left and a flat-felled seam on the right. — This image explains the overlock and flat-felled seam types by highlighting the hem of a pair of jeans sewed with an overlocked inseam on the left and a flat-felled seam on the right.

101/Denim/What is?

Definition of inseam types: Overlock & flat-felled seams

Published on July 14, 2023

Jeans and pants are a part of our everyday lives, and there’s more to them than just the fabric. Have you ever thought about the seams? They play a big role in how your jeans and pants look, feel, and last.

Excluding tailored clothing which is generally a single lockstitch with merrow stitching or binding over the edges, the two main kinds of seams in jeans and similarly constructed pants are flat-felled and overlocked seams.

If you’re thinking about tailoring your jeans or pants (especially tapering) or just want to know more about fashion, it’s good to understand these seams. Why? Because each seam type comes with its own set of benefits and challenges that can significantly affect the alteration process, durability, and aesthetics.

Flat-felled vs. Overlocked seams

Flat-felled seams are the most common type of inseam construction on jeans and similarly constructed pants. They are created by folding the raw edges of the fabric over, and on themselves, then stitching them together. This creates a strong and durable seam that is also very flat and neat. These seams are celebrated for their durability, fray resistance, clean finish, and aesthetic value. Flat-felled seams are often used on high-quality jeans in the light-to-midweight fabric range but can be a problem with heavyweight or thick fabrics because of the multiple layers of folded fabrics required to sew through where seams meet and the fabric’s weight.

When it comes to sewing through multiple seams, manufacturers of heavyweight denim will use flat-felled seams at the seat, even though they must sew through 12 layers of fabric where the yoke and center seat seams meet, and avoid the flat-felled seam on the inseam, where 8 layers of fabric must be sewn through in the crotch, for several reasons.

First, in the seat area of jeans and similarly constructed pants, the flat-felled’s low profile, smoothness, and visual aesthetic have more value than an overlocked seam. Second, because of the shorter distance regarding sewing, errors can be more quickly corrected compared to the long distance at the inseam.

Some brands, such as Bravestar and a few others, will take on the massive challenge of producing heavyweight jeans with flat-felled inseams. Sewing flat-felled inseams of heavy jeans during tapering is tough in our experience, not because of the fabric’s thickness, but due to the weight and gravity pulling on the jeans while they hang under the off-the-arm sewing machine. The weight exerts a continual tug on the fabric, which the sewer is attempting to hold upward into the folder, which causes the fabric edges to turn over, to create flat-felled seams. Shorter sewing distances, such as the rear yoke and center seat seams, are not a problem. Longer sewing distances, such as the inseam, have three to four times the weight and force pulling the fabric down and out of the folder. As a result, every time the sewer adjusts their hand position while sewing, the fabric slips down, or lower in the folder, causing sewing problems. This is most certainly the most significant explanation for why factories prefer to produce heavyweight jeans with overlock inseams.

Overlock seams, also known as serged seams, are another common type of inseam construction. These are generally used on the insides of the garment. Overlock seams are created by an overlock machine, which stitches the seam, trims the seam allowance, and encases the edge of the fabric with thread, all in one step.

The overlocked seam is more valued at the inseam on heavyweight jeans because it’s easier to sew. Also, it does not create as much bulk where the seams meet in the crotch, where there is lots of movement, unlike the yoke area of the seat, which sits flat. Lastly, the more unsightly appearance of the overlock seam is not visible on the inseam unless the jeans are turned up at the hem.

While not as durable or aesthetically pleasing as flat-felled seams, overlock seams are quicker and more economical to produce. They also provide adequate fray resistance, which is particularly important on the raw edges of denim.

The Importance of seam type in Tapering Jeans and Pants

What does this have to do with getting your pants and jeans tapered? To begin with, the type of seam influences the method and difficulty of making an alteration. The vast majority of tailors will taper jeans and pants from the outseam to avoid the inseam because of a lack of equipment, knowledge, or both. This is not an option with selvedge clothing since it would damage the selvedge. Unless flared, or garments designed for curvy bodies, the shape of jeans and pants legs is typically drafted in the inseam, leaving the outseams mostly straight up to the hips. As a result, modifications should also be made to the inseam.

Tailoring flat-felled seams requires a feed-off-the-arm sewing machine to be done correctly, and in order to maintain the original construction. It also requires skill and knowledge of the construction techniques used on mass-produced read-to-wear garments, which often have very different rules than tailored clothing.

Overlock seams, on the other hand, are easier and faster to alter. An overlock machine, which is one of the more common types of sewing machines available in many types of tailoring establishments, can be used to cut and re-sew the seam. Most tailors will struggle with how to handle the top stitch that is sewn on top of overlocked seams. Without an off-the-arm machine, it’s impossible to sew a fresh top stitch from hem to hem in a single pass, without taking the garment apart. Because they can only sew so far up the leg, heading upward towards the crotch, they must either link a new top stitch to the previous one. Alternatively, they can open the outseams all the way to the hips in order to fit the jeans or pants through a flatbed machine, sewing around the inseam, in a single pass.

In Summary

Choosing to taper your jeans can give them a fresh lease of life, adapting them to changing trends or personal style preferences. But before you take them to a tailor, examine the inseam construction. Knowing whether you’re dealing with a flat-felled or overlocked seam will help you understand the complexity of the task and manage your expectations regarding cost, time, and final appearance. This way, you’ll ensure you’re making an informed decision about tailoring, helping your favorite denim remain a staple in your wardrobe for years to come.

A close-up of professional chain stitch hemming alterations highlights what chain stitching is by displaying a thick golden yellow chain stitch on the hem of blue jeans.

Denim/How To

Chain stitch hemming – how it’s done

Published on April 26, 2023

In this brief social media video, we show how to hem jeans professionally, just like it’s actually done at denim factories. In our video, there is no need for work-around-sewing-techniques, which leave bulky seamlines over the hem or ragged fabric on the reverse side, which prevents cuffing or rolling the hem. We love denim at Williamsburg Garment Company and hemming jeans the right way is important to us.

Even the heaviest denim is no problem for our beast of a sewing machine, a customized Union Special 56300 that bores through multiple layers of folds and seams. Here, denim designer Maurice Malone demonstrates chain stitch hemming a pair of jeans in our Instagram and TikTok video. Make sure to stay tuned and follow us for more.

The finished result of a professionally tailored heavyweight Oni Denim jacket with alterations to take in the body and sleeves. — Professionally tailored heavyweight Oni Denim jacket.

Denim/How To

Can you tailor denim jackets?

Published on April 22, 2023

“Can you tailor denim jackets?” is a frequently asked question at Williamsburg Garment Company. Our answer, as with all denim products, is, of course, yes, but jackets and shirts are more complicated. They have armholes and shoulder widths that correspond to the width of the body. When you narrow the body width evenly, the armhole shrinks and the armpit curve is negatively affected. At the same time, the shoulder width remains constant, resulting in wide shoulders compared to the body width. The only way to avoid this is to remove the sleeves and, if possible, draft new armholes and sleeve shapes. Otherwise, you can leave the armhole alone and narrow the body unevenly from the chest/armholes down.

Nothing about modifying denim jackets is simple or easy. The body width is linked to the armhole and shoulders, whereas the sleeve length is linked to the button placket length and/or the armhole.

Can you tailor denim jackets on a home sewing machine?

When it comes to DIY denim jacket alterations, the short answer is that you can do it, but it is not recommended. If you’ve done any research on the subject, you’ve probably discovered that all of the videos and advice you’ve seen have had poor results on cheaply made garments.

Flat-felled seams on the sides, shoulders, and sleeves distinguish traditional jean jackets. This design eliminates the option of doing high-quality alterations on home sewing machines, at your local dry cleaners, or at the best, most reputable tailoring shops. Most denim alterations specialists lack the factory equipment (a Feed-off-the-Arm 3-Needle or Double Chainstitch Industrial Sewing Machine) to duplicate the double-needle flat-felled seam with chain stitching and must come up with an improvised method to sew them.

Most denim jackets and jeans are produced with fabric that is too thick for home machines. To tailor denim on a home sewing machine, you would need to avoid thick seams or deal with really thin, lightweight denim fabrics.

Thread size is also an issue with DIY and most tailoring shops. Denim is typically sewn with thicker thread sizes than most other garments, which contributes to its distinctively sturdy appearance. Home machines are not designed to handle the needle sizes required for thick threads. They also lack the ability to puncture through layers of denim using wide-diameter needles with large eye holes. Thin thread sizes and short stitch lengths are two of the reasons why denim does not look like denim when it is not sewn with the proper threads.

How altering a jean jacket professionally is done

The owner of this heavyweight Oni Denim jacket adored it, however, he had a small frame and required the chest and arms reduced. Here are the steps we used to customize his denim jacket:

1. Chain-stitched flat-felled seams close the sides and sleeves of traditional jean jackets. Because the band at the bottom is chain stitched to the jacket, our first step was to remove the chain stitching connecting the waistband to the body, just enough to remove excess fabric and resew the seams closed.

2. Following that, we split the waistband and removed the chain stitching that held the flat-felled seams together from the waistband to about 6 inches from the cuff seam. After narrowing the excess fabric around the bicep, just past the elbow, we could neatly flow into the sleeve.

3. We press flat the flat-felled seam folds in order to draw the new shape from the waistband up to the armpit and then fade out the shape before reaching the cuff.

4. The seams were then closed (as indicated in the image below) by stitching fresh double-needle chain-stitched flat-felled seams using the same thread size and color as the original. If you look closely at the yellow chain stitching, you can see where the new sewing blends in with the old.

How to tailor a denim jacket is explained through this photo of an Oni Denim jean jacket, which is in the process of being tailored, to deduce the chest and sleeves.

6. After cutting away the extra fabric of the bottom band, we rejoined and resewed it to the body with single-needle chain stitching.

7. Finally, the band tabs along the side seams were reattached. Again, if you look very closely, a seamline where the waistband was split and resewn can be seen near the two yellow stitch lines that attach the tabs. Take note of the new chain stitching that joins the old one below the pocket bag.

Williamsburg Garment Company’s objective is to make alterations to improve fit while retaining the original style and construction. This entails matching thread colors and sizes and stitching seams back the same as the original factory sewing.