Maurice Malone

If you know denim...

African American denim designer and fashion brands owner Maurice Malone speaking to students in denim class at Parson School of Design
A 16-ounce can of Jack's Abby Ray Catcher beer for review as one of the most refreshing craft beers and rice lagers.

Like Sweet Sunshine: Ray Catcher by Jack’s Abby Brewing

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Jack’s Abby Brewing’s craft rice lager, “Ray Catcher,” tastes like catching sunshine in a glass. It is both incredibly refreshing and surprisingly exciting. I had to resist the strong temptation of not putting the glass down and guzzling the whole 16 ounces before realizing that it would not be good for this taste review.

This brew makes a delightful first impression with its deep straw-gold appearance. The pour births a playful, frothy head that gradually subsides, mirroring the airy lightness intrinsic to this lager.

As Ray Catcher breathes, it unfolds an alluring aromatic narrative. Initially, the nose detects a subtle combination of spice and light fruit tones. The beer’s palate is an echo of its aroma, with a melody of flavors playing in perfect harmony. Beneath these bold strokes hides a trace of light fruitiness, whispering mysteries to your taste buds.

Despite its light-bodied nature, Ray Catcher possesses an impressive fullness of mouthfeel, thanks to the natural carbonation. This duality turns every sip into an experience; each taste is a fresh revelation that keeps you reaching for more.

Ray Catcher’s refreshingly crisp taste and clean finish are like precious rays of sunshine, meant to be caught, savored, and remembered. Light as a summer breeze yet deep with complexity, Ray Catcher is not just a beer but a liquid embodiment of the sun’s golden touch.

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A 12-ounce can of Banana Bread Beer by Eagle Brewery

Unpeeling a flavorful review of Eagle Brewery’s Banana Bread Beer

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Bracing your senses with a taste that transcends the ordinary, Eagle Brewery’s (formerly known as Charles Wells) Banana Bread Beer is no ordinary libation. Its initial pour reveals a rich, tantalizing aroma of banana bread, fresh from the oven. Though bananas might not be my first fruit of choice, this delightful fragrance captures the essence of comfort and warmth in a truly irresistible way.

This extraordinary brew first caught my eye while stopping for drinks at Kent Ale House in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Amid a common line-up of beers, the can’s artwork caught my attention, reading “Banana Bread Beer by Eagle Brewery.” I’d never encountered a banana-flavored beer before, so curiosity piqued, I decided to give it a shot.

My first encounter with Eagle Banana Bread Beer was at Kent Ale House in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

My first sip elicited a simple thought: “This is different.” As the night was winding down after a long day, the thought of another round was tempting, but I held back. Yet, I was keen not to let this unique brew slip from my memory, so I snapped a few pictures as a reminder of my newfound gem.

Fast forward a few weeks and a routine perusal of my local Whole Foods’ beer section brought a delightful surprise. There it was—my memorable banana bread beer, gleaming in a six-pack arrangement. Without a second thought, I grabbed a pack, eager to revisit the experience, and pen down this review.

As it turned out, one six-pack wasn’t enough. The beers disappeared faster than I could type, and on my return to the store, the shelves stood bare, mirroring my disappointment. A few more trips, and I finally lucked out, securing another six-pack and another chance to delve into the flavors of this remarkable brew.

Eagle Brewery’s Banana Bread Beer is more than just an intoxicating blend of flavors; it’s a sensory experience that kindles the warm, comforting nostalgia of homemade banana bread, encased in a finely crafted brew. It strikes a fairly balanced note. It pours a dark amber, tasting with a subtle hint of bitterness that complements rather than competes with the sweet undertones. Its flavor profile embodies the essence of an authentic English ale, with smooth hints of ripe banana, caramel, and a touch of malt that dance on the palate.

For beer enthusiasts seeking to venture beyond the traditional and for anyone who cherishes a high-quality brew, Eagle Brewery’s Banana Bread Beer presents an unparalleled taste adventure. It stands as a testament to the magic that can happen when innovation meets meticulous execution, adding a delightful new chapter to the beer industry’s narrative. So, should you stumble upon this enticing brew at your local bar or retailer, don’t hesitate to indulge in the unique charm of this banana bread beer. Here’s to embarking on a memorable taste journey! Cheers!

Overlock and flat-felled seam types by highlighting the hem of a pair of jeans sewed with an overlocked inseam on the left and a flat-felled seam on the right.
This image explains the overlock and flat-felled seam types by highlighting the hem of a pair of jeans sewed with an overlocked inseam on the left and a flat-felled seam on the right.
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Definition of inseam types: Overlock & flat-felled seams

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Jeans and pants are a part of our everyday lives, and there’s more to them than just the fabric. Have you ever thought about the seams? They play a big role in how your jeans and pants look, feel, and last.

Excluding tailored clothing which is generally a single lockstitch with merrow stitching or binding over the edges, the two main kinds of seams in jeans and similarly constructed pants are flat-felled and overlocked seams.

If you’re thinking about tailoring your jeans or pants (especially tapering) or just want to know more about fashion, it’s good to understand these seams. Why? Because each seam type comes with its own set of benefits and challenges that can significantly affect the alteration process, durability, and aesthetics.

Flat-felled vs. Overlocked seams

Flat-felled seams are the most common type of inseam construction on jeans and similarly constructed pants. They are created by folding the raw edges of the fabric over, and on themselves, then stitching them together. This creates a strong and durable seam that is also very flat and neat. These seams are celebrated for their durability, fray resistance, clean finish, and aesthetic value. Flat-felled seams are often used on high-quality jeans in the light-to-midweight fabric range but can be a problem with heavyweight or thick fabrics because of the multiple layers of folded fabrics required to sew through where seams meet and the fabric’s weight.

When it comes to sewing through multiple seams, manufacturers of heavyweight denim will use flat-felled seams at the seat, even though they must sew through 12 layers of fabric where the yoke and center seat seams meet, and avoid the flat-felled seam on the inseam, where 8 layers of fabric must be sewn through in the crotch, for several reasons.

First, in the seat area of jeans and similarly constructed pants, the flat-felled’s low profile, smoothness, and visual aesthetic have more value than an overlocked seam. Second, because of the shorter distance regarding sewing, errors can be more quickly corrected compared to the long distance at the inseam.

Some brands, such as Bravestar and a few others, will take on the massive challenge of producing heavyweight jeans with flat-felled inseams. Sewing flat-felled inseams of heavy jeans during tapering is tough in our experience, not because of the fabric’s thickness, but due to the weight and gravity pulling on the jeans while they hang under the off-the-arm sewing machine. The weight exerts a continual tug on the fabric, which the sewer is attempting to hold upward into the folder, which causes the fabric edges to turn over, to create flat-felled seams. Shorter sewing distances, such as the rear yoke and center seat seams, are not a problem. Longer sewing distances, such as the inseam, have three to four times the weight and force pulling the fabric down and out of the folder. As a result, every time the sewer adjusts their hand position while sewing, the fabric slips down, or lower in the folder, causing sewing problems. This is most certainly the most significant explanation for why factories prefer to produce heavyweight jeans with overlock inseams.

Overlock seams, also known as serged seams, are another common type of inseam construction. These are generally used on the insides of the garment. Overlock seams are created by an overlock machine, which stitches the seam, trims the seam allowance, and encases the edge of the fabric with thread, all in one step.

The overlocked seam is more valued at the inseam on heavyweight jeans because it’s easier to sew. Also, it does not create as much bulk where the seams meet in the crotch, where there is lots of movement, unlike the yoke area of the seat, which sits flat. Lastly, the more unsightly appearance of the overlock seam is not visible on the inseam unless the jeans are turned up at the hem.

While not as durable or aesthetically pleasing as flat-felled seams, overlock seams are quicker and more economical to produce. They also provide adequate fray resistance, which is particularly important on the raw edges of denim.

The Importance of seam type in Tapering Jeans and Pants

What does this have to do with getting your pants and jeans tapered? To begin with, the type of seam influences the method and difficulty of making an alteration. The vast majority of tailors will taper jeans and pants from the outseam to avoid the inseam because of a lack of equipment, knowledge, or both. This is not an option with selvedge clothing since it would damage the selvedge. Unless flared, or garments designed for curvy bodies, the shape of jeans and pants legs is typically drafted in the inseam, leaving the outseams mostly straight up to the hips. As a result, modifications should also be made to the inseam.

Tailoring flat-felled seams requires a feed-off-the-arm sewing machine to be done correctly, and in order to maintain the original construction. It also requires skill and knowledge of the construction techniques used on mass-produced read-to-wear garments, which often have very different rules than tailored clothing.

Overlock seams, on the other hand, are easier and faster to alter. An overlock machine, which is one of the more common types of sewing machines available in many types of tailoring establishments, can be used to cut and re-sew the seam. Most tailors will struggle with how to handle the top stitch that is sewn on top of overlocked seams. Without an off-the-arm machine, it’s impossible to sew a fresh top stitch from hem to hem in a single pass, without taking the garment apart. Because they can only sew so far up the leg, heading upward towards the crotch, they must either link a new top stitch to the previous one. Alternatively, they can open the outseams all the way to the hips in order to fit the jeans or pants through a flatbed machine, sewing around the inseam, in a single pass.

In Summary

Choosing to taper your jeans can give them a fresh lease of life, adapting them to changing trends or personal style preferences. But before you take them to a tailor, examine the inseam construction. Knowing whether you’re dealing with a flat-felled or overlocked seam will help you understand the complexity of the task and manage your expectations regarding cost, time, and final appearance. This way, you’ll ensure you’re making an informed decision about tailoring, helping your favorite denim remain a staple in your wardrobe for years to come.

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Close-up of professional pant hemming, showing the pressing process after sewing. The image is part of a video tutorial by Denimbmc.com on how to hem pants correctly.

How to Hem Pants by a Pro

When it comes to hemming pants, maintaining the original look is key. Many tailors use what’s known as an “original

Selvedge denim fabric parts are rolled up to later be sewn into a pair of custom, handmade selvedge denim jeans by Williamsburg Garment Company.
Selvedge denim jeans pieces are rolled up before they are assembled into a pair of handcrafted custom-made jeans.
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Selvedge or selvage? And what is it?

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Within the realm of textile terminology, ‘selvage’ and ‘selvedge’ often cause some confusion due to their apparent similarity. These terms, which primarily differ by their usage in American and British English respectively, both refer to the “self-edge” of fabric, a tightly woven edge that prevents fraying. Although selvage and selvedge labels are frequently associated with higher-quality denim, it’s critical to understand that these terms alone do not guarantee superior quality. Rather, the true quality of the fabric depends on various factors, including the materials used, the production methods, and the attention to detail throughout the manufacturing process.

A roll of denim fabric depicts a wonderful example of what selvedge denim is by its distinct, tightly woven edges.
Example of a roll of selvedge denim, which is distinguished by its distinct, tightly woven edges. Selvedge denim is derived from traditional shuttle loom weaving, resulting in distinct character and texture, as seen in the texture of this fabric.

The origins of selvedge or selvage denim can be traced back to the use of traditional shuttle looms. These machines became less favored during the early-to-mid twentieth century with the advent of more efficient and faster machines. Shuttle looms, although slower and more cumbersome, bestowed upon the fabric a distinctive texture and character. However, as textile producers began to prioritize efficiency and affordability, non-selvedge textiles, produced by high-speed air jet weaving machines, gained popularity.

Photo of wide-goods denim, also known as non-selvedge denim, which is characterized by its loose, unfinished raw edges.
Pictured is wide-goods or non-selvedge denim, typically produced with high-speed modern weaving methods. Unlike selvedge denim, it lacks a self-edge and offers more consistent weaving due to advanced machinery.

Modern high-speed weaving machines significantly outperform shuttle looms in terms of production speed and efficiency, enabling the mass manufacturing of fabrics at a lowered cost. However, the trade-off here is the loss of the characteristic “imperfections” and unique quality that traditional shuttle looms imparted to the fabric. This is one of the major reasons why selvedge denim, despite being slower and more expensive to produce, is still sought after by certain consumers and fashion connoisseurs.

Distinguishing Between Raw Denim and Selvedge Denim

Raw denim and selvedge denim are terms used in the denim industry to refer to different aspects and should not be conflated. Raw denim, or ‘dry denim’, refers to denim fabric that hasn’t been washed or treated after the dyeing process. As such, raw denim can come in a variety of shades, from dark indigo to lighter blue, depending on the dye used. On the other hand, selvedge (or selvage) denim pertains to the method of finishing the fabric’s edge to prevent fraying, often associated with higher-quality production. It’s possible for a pair of jeans to be both raw and selvedge, but they are not mutually exclusive terms. For a more detailed exploration of raw denim and selvedge denim, feel free to visit this link.

What are selvedge jeans, explained by inside view of custom-made jeans constructed in Japanese selvedge denim with selvedge displayed along the outseams.
An inside view of selvedge jeans displays the self-edge of the fabric along the outseams.

In recent years, a resurgence in the popularity of selvage or selvedge textiles has been witnessed as consumers have grown more discerning about the craftsmanship and quality of their clothing. The unique quality, texture, and durability of selvage denim, produced on shuttle looms, possess a distinctive charm and character that many consumers find desirable. In essence, it’s the “imperfections” of the traditional shuttle weaving process that sets selvage apart, adding value to it.

However, it’s vital to remember that the quality of selvedge denim can significantly vary. Some manufacturers leverage the meticulous weaving process of the shuttle loom, investing in high-quality cotton and dyes, resulting in a more robust and durable product. Conversely, lower-quality producers of selvedge textiles may merely imitate the look and utilize lower-quality materials, resulting in a less resilient product.

In conclusion, whether you encounter the term ‘selvage’ or ‘selvedge’, it refers to a particular type of denim defined by its distinctive woven edge finish. While these terms often imply higher quality due to their association with traditional production methods, the actual quality can differ vastly. Thus, as a consumer, it’s essential to understand the intricacies of selvage or selvedge denim, the specific brand, and its production methods to make an informed decision when purchasing such products.

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Peach Berry Punch Sour Ale in a tall 16-ounce can, brewed by Talea Beer Co., for a taste review in the blog Denim Beer Machines and Coffee.

Talea Peach Berry Punch Sour Ale

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I consider myself fortunate to be a beer lover living in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and working in Greenpoint. The two vibrant communities are surrounded by craft brewers and are a paradise for beer connoisseurs, offering a diverse range of distinctive and innovative brews that push the boundaries of flavor.

Talea Beer Co., co-founded by two women, LeAnn Darland and Tara Hankinson, has made a name for itself among the area’s prominent breweries. Its exceptional variety of beers and its Peach Berry Punch Sour Ale are remarkable illustrations of their craftsmanship.

Walking into the Talea Beer Co. taproom is like stepping into a world of beer exploration. The atmosphere is lively, with conversations flowing and the scent of hops permeating the air. The bar is lined with an impressive selection of their own creations, each with its own story and flavor profile. As a resident of this beer-centric neighborhood, I feel a sense of excitement and anticipation whenever I step foot into this haven of brewing excellence.

On my first visit, reading the menu, I found myself irresistibly drawn to the Peach Berry Punch Sour Ale. Its fruity, delicious description depicting a medley of peaches and berries immediately captured my attention.

The Talea Beer Co. flagship brewery and taproom, located at 87 Richardson Street in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, opened in March 2021.
The Talea Beer Co. flagship brewery and taproom is located at 87 Richardson Street, Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

I would later purchase a 4-pack from my neighborhood grocery to taste-test and write my review. Looking at the cans, the artwork sets the tone for the sensory excursion that awaits inside.

As I cracked open the can, a burst of fruity aromas wafted up to greet me. The tantalizing scent of ripe peaches and luscious berries filled the air, instantly transporting me to a sun-drenched orchard. It was a promising prelude to what I hoped would be a remarkable tasting experience.

Pouring the Talea Peach Berry Punch Sour Ale into a glass revealed its radiant golden-orange hue, reminiscent of a summer sunset. The effervescence created a delicate white head that dissipated quickly, leaving behind a tantalizing aroma that beckoned me closer.

With my first sip, the initial burst of tartness awakened my taste buds, instantly grabbing my attention. But what followed was a symphony of flavors that danced across my palate. The sweetness of the peaches mingled harmoniously with the tanginess of the berries, creating a delightful balance that was neither too cloying nor overly sour. It was a refreshing and invigorating combination that spoke to the skill and artistry of the brewers.

What truly set the Talea Peach Berry Punch Sour Ale apart was its complexity and vibrant fruit flavors. The finish of the beer was clean and crisp, with a lingering sourness that invited another sip. The light and effervescent mouthfeel further enhanced the refreshing nature of the brew, making it effortlessly enjoyable and easy to drink.

As I savored the last drops of the Peach Berry Punch, I couldn’t help but appreciate the dedication and passion that went into creating this masterpiece. It was a testament to the innovation and artistry that define the craft beer scene in Brooklyn.

For beer enthusiasts seeking an extraordinary sensory experience, this brew is a must-try. So, raise your glass and toast to the wonders of Williamsburg and Greenpoint’s craft beer community, where exceptional brews like this one continue to redefine the boundaries of taste. 

  • Style: Fruited Kettle Sour
  • ABV: 6.0%
  • IBUs: 5
  • Hops: Citra for bittering
  • Malts: 1/2 pilsner 1/2 wheat
  • Tasting Notes: Harmonious blend of tart & tangy with peaches, strawberry, and pink guava 
  • Brewer: Talea Beer Co. – Williamsburg, Brooklyn-based, Craft Beer Brewery

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A tall 16-ounce can of Threes Brewing Logical Conclusion IPA craft beer for review in the blog Denim Beer Machines and Coffee.

Threes Brewing’s Logical Conclusion IPA: A juicy hazy review

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I typically tend to lean away from India Pale Ales, often finding their bitterness overwhelming. However, the Logical Conclusion IPA from Threes Brewing has exceeded my expectations. It has earned a special place on my list of favorite beers.

This brew is a visual treat, presenting a hazy, inviting yellow in the glass, crowned by a persistent white head. The flavor is where it really shines—there’s an upfront bitterness, as one would expect from an IPA, but it’s gracefully tempered by a subtle, underlying sweetness. This balance creates an intricate dance of flavors that makes Logical Conclusion a truly memorable brew.

The beer’s aroma is a riot of tropical sensations. Wafts of ripe peaches, mango, and citrus are underpinned by a soft piney undertone. It’s inviting and vibrant, a testament to the trio of hops used in brewing: Citra, Simcoe, and Mosaic. This blend of hops is a hallmark of Logical Conclusion and sets the stage for the gustatory journey that awaits.

A 4-pack of Threes Brewing Logical Conclusion juicy hazy fruity IPA craft beer in one pint tall cans for review in the blog Denim Beer Machines & Coffee.
4-pack of Threes Brewing Logical Conclusion juicy hazy fruity IPA in one-pint tall cans.

Logical Conclusion was first brewed in 2016. It has become one of the brewery’s most popular beers, winning various awards. In 2019, the New York State Brewers Association named it “Best Hazy IPA in New York State“.

I first learned of Logical Conclusion at a staff meeting. We often have these meetings at Threes Brewing and Bar in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. This hospitable institution has been a popular site for our meetings, thanks in part to its incredibly affordable cuisine.

Discussing work with a cold beer in hand and delicious wings inspires productive conversations. It’s a monument to Threes Brewing’s ambiance and proof of their devotion to uplifting the community via their trade.

In conclusion, the Logical Conclusion IPA is more than just a refreshing beer. It symbolizes Threes Brewing’s dedication to the craft of brewing.

This beer is a story of passion and effort. It is both distinctive and pleasant. I can confidently say it always succeeds. Three’s Logical Conclusion guarantees an experience worth experiencing, whether you’re a seasoned beer connoisseur or a casual drinker.

  • Style: Hazy IPA
  • ABV: 7.0%
  • IBUs: 45
  • Hops: Citra, Simcoe, and Mosaic
  • Malts: German Pilsner Malt, German Malted Wheat, and American Wheat Flakes
  • Tasting Notes: Ripe Peach, Gushers, Fluffy Wheat, Coniferous, White Minerals
  • Brewer: Threes Brewing – Gowanus, Brooklyn, New York-based, Craft Beer Brewery
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