Maurice Malone

If you know denim...

African American denim designer and fashion brands owner Maurice Malone speaking to students in denim class at Parson School of Design
Close-up of sewing the center back seam on denim to take in the waist of jeans using a Union Special feed-off-the-arm machine with chainstitching.
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The Professional Way: How to Take In the Waist of Jeans

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If you’ve ever typed how to take in the waist of jeans into Google, you’ve probably seen a lot of DIY tricks—some good, some pretty questionable. But here’s the thing: there’s a world of difference between a quick fix at home and a professional alteration that looks like it came straight from the factory.

At Denim BMC, we know our readers care about denim done right. That’s why we’re sharing a look inside Williamsburg Garment Company’s proven method for taking in the waist on jeans—without darts, shortcuts, or messy seams.

A tailor marks the amount to be removed from the center seam to take in the waist of jeans. Precise measuring ensures a perfect fit and maintains the original shape of the denim.

In this video, owner Maurice Malone walks you through the same technique he developed back in the twenty-teens, when a customer asked him to take in his jeans without leaving any sign of an alteration. Most tailors rely on darts because they don’t have the right industrial machines to handle heavy denim, chainstitch seat seams, and belt loop reattachments. Maurice shows how real pros do it: four specialized machines, careful disassembly, and a factory-finish result that holds up to close inspection.

If you’re serious about your denim, it’s worth seeing how proper waist alterations are done—and why they matter so much if you want your jeans to fit perfectly and still look original.

Order Waist Alterations Online

Watch the video below to see the full process in action and learn why Williamsburg Garment Company is trusted by denim lovers nationwide.

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330ml bottle of Kyoto White Yuzu Ale by Kizakura Sake Brewing Co., Ltd. Captured for a Denimbmc.com taste review blog post, showcasing its label and bottle design.

Kyoto White Yuzu Ale Review—Crisp Citrus from Japan

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Kyoto White Yuzu Ale by Kizakura Sake Brewing Co. is a refreshing Belgian-style wheat beer brewed with Japanese yuzu and coriander. It opens with a clean citrus aroma and pours golden with a light haze. The first sip brings mild, fruity yuzu upfront, layered over a smooth wheat body with subtle spice notes and a slightly bitter, peel-like finish.

The body is light and smooth with just enough carbonation to keep things crisp. It also comes with an easy-opening pull tab bottle cap—not something you see every day, but it fits the beer’s approachable vibe. If you’re into Belgian Whites and want a well-made, citrus-forward variation with a Japanese twist, Kyoto White Yuzu Ale is worth seeking out.

  • Style: Belgian White style with “Yuzu”
  • ABV: 5.0 %
  • IBUs: 20.3
  • Available: Year-Round
  • Brewer: Kizakura Sake Brewing Co., based in Kyoto, Japan

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16oz. can of Fat Orange Cat Brew Co.’s Kittens Summer Ale with colorful baseball-themed cat label design.

Kittens Summer Ale Review—A Bright, Refreshing Hit from Fat Orange Cat

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Fat Orange Cat’s Kittens Summer Ale is light, crisp, and citrus-forward—exactly what you want when the heat rolls in. With a splash of orange-like zest and a mellow wheat backbone, it’s an easy-drinking, thirst-quenching wheat ale built for long, sunny days.

I really like this beer. It hits the spot with just the right balance of flavor and refreshment. If you’re after something bright, simple, and satisfying, this one’s a go-to. Bring the heat; I’m ready for summer.

  • Style:  American Pale Wheat Ale
  • ABV: 5.0 %
  • IBUs: N/A
  • Available: Summer
  • Brewer: Fat Orange Cat Brew Co., based in East Hampton, Connecticut
Can of Barrel of Monks Single in Havana Blonde Ale with Guava, red and teal label, on white background.

Barrel of Monks Single in Havana Review

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Barrel of Monks Single in Havana is an exceptionally light and subtly flavored beer. Right from the pour, you’re greeted by a faint yet inviting aroma of guava and citrus. True to its description as a Belgian-inspired blonde ale, this brew delivers a very mild taste, with guava notes present but quite subtle, approaching almost watered-down territory.

This beer’s charm is in its simplicity and crisp finish. At just 4.5% ABV, Single in Havana is refreshingly easy to drink, perfect for those who prefer lighter beers or desire something gently flavored without heavy sweetness. While the guava presence doesn’t dominate, it adds a pleasant touch that lifts the beer from being just another blonde ale into something more intriguing and enjoyable.

Overall, Single in Havana may not thrill drinkers looking for intense fruit flavors or bold complexity, but it’s certainly a winning choice if a clean, refreshing, and sessionable beer with a delicate hint of tropical fruit appeals to you.

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Workers sewing denim at the TCB Jeans factory in Kojima, Japan, surrounded by sewing machines and cut fabric panels
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Rebuilding Retail the Right Way – Why TCB Jeans Was the Perfect First Choice

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At Williamsburg Garment Company, we’ve spent years perfecting denim fit. Whether it’s hemming selvedge, tapering heavyweight raw denim, or completely re-engineering the shape of jeans, we’ve become the go-to name in denim alterations across the U.S. Recently, we’ve taken what we do best and combined it with something new—but long overdue: selling premium jeans from other top-tier brands directly through our platform and studio.

This is not your typical retail expansion. What sets WGC apart is that we’re not just a place to buy jeans—we’re the place to make them fit perfectly. No other denim retailer in the country offers this level of specialized tailoring in-house. Big-box stores might provide alterations, but their tailors aren’t trained in denim construction. While specialty denim shops may offer high-quality jeans, their tailors typically only perform basic chainstitch hemming and maybe repairs. Williamsburg Garment Company is something entirely different. We are a small denim factory. We sew jeans from scratch. We have the machines, the expertise, and a team led by a legendary designer who understands every part of a jean’s construction.

Now, customers can shop from a curated collection of hard-to-find brands and have them tailored by the most capable denim experts in the country—before the jeans ever leave our shop.

The first brand in our new lineup was TCB Jeans, a company out of Kojima, Japan that builds its reputation on craftsmanship, historical research, and dedication to the original spirit of American denim. TCB specializes in reproduction jeans—faithful recreations of denim from the 1940s, ’50s, and ’60s, made with remarkable attention to period-correct details. That means everything from the fabric weave to the thread gauge, from the rivets to the paper patch, is chosen to match garments from the original era.

We were introduced to TCB by one of our team members, Amalia Nissan, who began working with us after returning from a sourcing trip to Japan. Already a fan of TCB’s 50s jeans—and a serious denim enthusiast—she took it upon herself to meet with factories, tour workshops, and build relationships with makers who live and breathe reproduction denim. TCB stood out from the rest—not just for their product, but for their clear dedication to denim that’s made to be worn hard and lived in.

That philosophy matches our own. We don’t believe in precious jeans meant to sit on a shelf. We believe in garments that are worn, faded, repaired, and reshaped over time. And we believe the right pair of jeans doesn’t just fit—it becomes part of your life.

By offering TCB Jeans at Williamsburg Garment Company, we’re creating a new experience for denim lovers. You no longer have to buy jeans from one shop and send them to another for proper alterations. Now you can buy and tailor in one place—with no compromises in craftsmanship, detail, or fit.

Shop or find out more about TCB Jeans →
TCB was the perfect brand to kick off our retail expansion—not just because of their product, but because of what they represent. Their commitment to historical accuracy, quality craftsmanship, and denim that’s meant to be truly worn mirrors everything we stand for at Williamsburg Garment Company. Like us, they believe jeans should be built with purpose, designed with care, and lived in fully. Starting with TCB set the tone for the kind of brands we’re proud to carry: those that value authenticity, make no compromises in construction, and understand that the best jeans are the ones that become part of your everyday life.

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A hand measuring the leg opening on a pair of blue jeans using a soft measuring tape, showing the proper technique for accurate measurement.
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How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans | Step-by-Step Guide

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The leg opening measurement is a critical factor in how your jeans fit over your shoes and shape your overall look. Whether you’re shopping online, comparing styles, or getting your jeans tapered, knowing how to measure the leg opening properly ensures accurate sizing and a better fit.

In this guide, we’ll break down the correct method for measuring the leg opening on jeans—just like we do in our professional denim alteration shop at Williamsburg Garment Company.

📏 What Is the Leg Opening on Jeans?

The leg opening is the width of the bottom hem of a pant leg. This measurement determines how fitted or wide the jeans will fall over your shoes. Slim, straight, bootcut, and wide-leg jeans all have different leg opening sizes, which impact the overall silhouette of the jeans.

🔥 Why Does It Matter?

✅ Helps compare different fits when buying jeans online
✅ Essential for tapering alterations to ensure a balanced look
✅ Impacts how jeans sit on top of shoes

🛠 Step-by-Step: How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans

Follow these simple steps to accurately measure the leg opening of your jeans.

1️⃣ Lay the Jeans Flat

  • Place your jeans on a flat surface, like a table or the floor.
  • Smooth out any wrinkles, but do not stretch the fabric.

🔽 See the diagram below for proper positioning:

[Insert drawing: Jeans laid flat with a focus on the hem area]

2️⃣ Align the Hem Evenly

  • Make sure both layers of fabric at the bottom hem are lined up evenly.
  • Some jeans, especially washed or worn pairs, may have twisting in the leg—try to align them as close to their natural shape as possible.

🔽 Illustration showing the hem properly aligned:

[Insert drawing: Close-up of the bottom hem, ensuring both sides are even]

3️⃣ Measure Across the Bottom Hem

  • Use a soft measuring tape and place it edge to edge across the leg opening.
  • Do not curve or wrap the tape—measure in a straight line.
  • Write down this measurement.

🔽 Example of correct measuring technique:

[Insert drawing: Measuring tape laid straight across the hem from one edge to the other]

4️⃣ Double the Measurement

  • Since jeans are measured flat, you’ll need to double the number to get the full leg opening circumference.
  • Example: If your measurement is 8 inches, the total leg opening is 16 inches.

🚨 Common Mistakes to Avoid

🔴 Not laying the jeans completely flat – Wrinkles and folds can throw off your measurement.
🔴 Measuring diagonally – Always measure straight across for accuracy.
🔴 Ignoring leg twisting – Some jeans may have a twist in the leg seam due to shrinkage or wash effects. Align them properly before measuring.

👖 How the Leg Opening Affects Fit

The leg opening measurement is key to understanding different jean styles:

  • Slim Fit Jeans – Narrow leg opening (usually 12″–14″)
  • Straight Fit Jeans – More room at the ankle (14″–16″)
  • Bootcut Jeans – Slight flare to fit over boots (16″–18″)
  • Wide-Leg Jeans – Loose fit with a larger leg opening (18″+)

📢 Thinking about tapering your jeans? If you want a smaller leg opening, professional tapering is the best way to achieve a clean, proportional fit. Check out our denim tapering service for expert alterations.

🎥 Watch the Video: Measuring the Leg Opening

For a full demonstration, watch our step-by-step video on how to measure the leg opening on jeans featuring Maurice Malone of Williamsburg Garment Company.

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