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Denim Talk banner showing Maurice Malone with sewing machine and laptop teaching how to make jeans live.
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Denim Talk: Real Denim Knowledge, Every Sunday at 5 PM

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Maurice Malone, MakingABrand.co, and Williamsburg Garment Company now present Denim Talk every Sunday at 5 PM.

After the first session, one thing is clear—there’s real interest in learning denim the right way. Not shortcuts, not recycled information, but practical knowledge that comes from actually doing the work.

Every Sunday at 5 PM, I’m on a mission to help rebuild the American-made denim industry, one designer at a time. It starts with reliable education.

Denim Talk is a weekly online meetup, hosted by Marc Esannason of MakingABrand.co, where anyone, from anywhere in the world, can join the conversation. You can ask me anything—jeans construction, design, manufacturing, building a brand, or whatever you’re trying to figure out. If it’s part of the denim business, we’ll get into it.

I’ve been working in this industry since 1984, and most of what I learned came from asking questions, making mistakes, and figuring things out the hard way. The goal now is to pass that knowledge on so others can move faster, avoid common pitfalls, and build something real.

That mission doesn’t stop at conversation.

Through Williamsburg Garment Company, we’ve already started helping new designers take the next step by producing samples and handling small production runs of denim jeans with low minimums. That’s something that’s been missing for a long time—real manufacturing support for small brands trying to get started.

Before jumping into production, I strongly suggest booking time to talk through your plans. We’ve already seen new designers make avoidable mistakes—issues with patterns, construction details, and production readiness that can cost time and money. A quick conversation upfront can save you from going down the wrong path.

It’s also important to clarify—Denim Talk is not the same as Denim Workshop.

Denim Talk is an online meetup focused on discussion, questions, and guidance.

Denim Workshop is a separate, hands-on program where I teach people how to actually make jeans in a real studio environment.

(Links to Denim Workshop will be added here.)

The first Denim Talk session is already available on the MakingABrand YouTube channel and is included below, so you can watch how the conversation works and the types of questions being asked.

Beyond that, I’m starting to build out a resource section here on DenimBMC.com. I’ll be sharing vetted sources for fabrics, labels, trims, machines, and services—companies I’ve worked with or reviewed that can realistically support small brands. The idea is simple: make it easier for designers to find the right partners without wasting time or money.

If you’re serious about denim—or even just trying to understand it better—join me on Sunday.

Denim Talk. Every Sunday at 5 PM.

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Signed handmade jeans with illustrated pocket bag and Williamsburg Garment Company tag, representing the upcoming denim workshop where attendees learn how to make jeans.
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Denim Workshop: Learn How To Make Jeans

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If you’re serious about denim—about understanding how jeans are made, how they’re designed, and how the pieces really come together—this is the workshop you’ve been waiting for.

This fall, I’ll be leading a new Denim Workshop inside the Williamsburg Garment Company studio in Brooklyn. The workshop is produced by Williamsburg Garment Company, Maurice Malone (the brand).

It’s designed for aspiring denim designers, fashion students, and apparel professionals who want real-world experience and hands-on training in how to make jeans using professional machines and methods.

Classes will be held on Wednesdays, 3 PM to 5 PM, starting May 13, 2026. I’ll be teaching live in the same studio where we sew jeans every day for our brands. This is a 9-week course.

If you’re interested, sign up now at MauriceMaloneUSA.com. You can also follow any of our social media channels for updates when enrollment opens.

“Denim Workshop is part of my goal to help inspire and develop the next generation of great denim designers.“

This isn’t a class for hobbyists or home crafters. This is a real-world jean-making and designing workshop, where you will make your own jeans on industrial sewing machines and learn digital pattern making using Tukacad.

You may have tried learning through YouTube or social media videos—but when you’re serious about mastering a craft, you quickly realize that online content can only take you so far. You want to understand the process in real time, ask questions, and get answers that aren’t surface-level. That’s what this workshop is built for.

Over the course of the program, you’ll:

  • Learn how to make jeans using real industrial machines and techniques
  • Understand stitch types, seam construction, and when to use them
  • Watch my team build a full pair of jeans from beginning to end, with full transparency
  • Learn the basics of pattern making and how to adjust fit through sample sewing
  • Construct a fit sample, make corrections, and finalize your own personalized pattern
  • Sew a complete, wearable pair of jeans using professional techniques

You’ll walk away with a finished garment and a real understanding of how jeans are made—not just on paper, but in practice.

Class sizes will be limited so that everyone gets hands-on time and personal guidance. This is an immersive experience, not a passive demo.

Let’s make some jeans.

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Close-up of sewing the center back seam on denim to take in the waist of jeans using a Union Special feed-off-the-arm machine with chainstitching.
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The Professional Way: How to Take In the Waist of Jeans

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If you’ve ever typed how to take in the waist of jeans into Google, you’ve probably seen a lot of DIY tricks—some good, some pretty questionable. But here’s the thing: there’s a world of difference between a quick fix at home and a professional alteration that looks like it came straight from the factory.

At Denim BMC, we know our readers care about denim done right. That’s why we’re sharing a look inside Williamsburg Garment Company’s proven method for taking in the waist on jeans—without darts, shortcuts, or messy seams.

A tailor marks the amount to be removed from the center seam to take in the waist of jeans. Precise measuring ensures a perfect fit and maintains the original shape of the denim.

In this video, owner Maurice Malone walks you through the same technique he developed back in the twenty-teens, when a customer asked him to take in his jeans without leaving any sign of an alteration. Most tailors rely on darts because they don’t have the right industrial machines to handle heavy denim, chainstitch seat seams, and belt loop reattachments. Maurice shows how real pros do it: four specialized machines, careful disassembly, and a factory-finish result that holds up to close inspection.

If you’re serious about your denim, it’s worth seeing how proper waist alterations are done—and why they matter so much if you want your jeans to fit perfectly and still look original.

Order Waist Alterations Online

Watch the video below to see the full process in action and learn why Williamsburg Garment Company is trusted by denim lovers nationwide.

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A hand measuring the leg opening on a pair of blue jeans using a soft measuring tape, showing the proper technique for accurate measurement.
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How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans | Step-by-Step Guide

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The leg opening measurement is a critical factor in how your jeans fit over your shoes and shape your overall look. Whether you’re shopping online, comparing styles, or getting your jeans tapered, knowing how to measure the leg opening properly ensures accurate sizing and a better fit.

In this guide, we’ll break down the correct method for measuring the leg opening on jeans—just like we do in our professional denim alteration shop at Williamsburg Garment Company.

📏 What Is the Leg Opening on Jeans?

The leg opening is the width of the bottom hem of a pant leg. This measurement determines how fitted or wide the jeans will fall over your shoes. Slim, straight, bootcut, and wide-leg jeans all have different leg opening sizes, which impact the overall silhouette of the jeans.

🔥 Why Does It Matter?

✅ Helps compare different fits when buying jeans online
✅ Essential for tapering alterations to ensure a balanced look
✅ Impacts how jeans sit on top of shoes

🛠 Step-by-Step: How to Measure the Leg Opening on Jeans

Follow these simple steps to accurately measure the leg opening of your jeans.

1️⃣ Lay the Jeans Flat

  • Place your jeans on a flat surface, like a table or the floor.
  • Smooth out any wrinkles, but do not stretch the fabric.

🔽 See the diagram below for proper positioning:

[Insert drawing: Jeans laid flat with a focus on the hem area]

2️⃣ Align the Hem Evenly

  • Make sure both layers of fabric at the bottom hem are lined up evenly.
  • Some jeans, especially washed or worn pairs, may have twisting in the leg—try to align them as close to their natural shape as possible.

🔽 Illustration showing the hem properly aligned:

[Insert drawing: Close-up of the bottom hem, ensuring both sides are even]

3️⃣ Measure Across the Bottom Hem

  • Use a soft measuring tape and place it edge to edge across the leg opening.
  • Do not curve or wrap the tape—measure in a straight line.
  • Write down this measurement.

🔽 Example of correct measuring technique:

[Insert drawing: Measuring tape laid straight across the hem from one edge to the other]

4️⃣ Double the Measurement

  • Since jeans are measured flat, you’ll need to double the number to get the full leg opening circumference.
  • Example: If your measurement is 8 inches, the total leg opening is 16 inches.

🚨 Common Mistakes to Avoid

🔴 Not laying the jeans completely flat – Wrinkles and folds can throw off your measurement.
🔴 Measuring diagonally – Always measure straight across for accuracy.
🔴 Ignoring leg twisting – Some jeans may have a twist in the leg seam due to shrinkage or wash effects. Align them properly before measuring.

👖 How the Leg Opening Affects Fit

The leg opening measurement is key to understanding different jean styles:

  • Slim Fit Jeans – Narrow leg opening (usually 12″–14″)
  • Straight Fit Jeans – More room at the ankle (14″–16″)
  • Bootcut Jeans – Slight flare to fit over boots (16″–18″)
  • Wide-Leg Jeans – Loose fit with a larger leg opening (18″+)

📢 Thinking about tapering your jeans? If you want a smaller leg opening, professional tapering is the best way to achieve a clean, proportional fit. Check out our denim tapering service for expert alterations.

🎥 Watch the Video: Measuring the Leg Opening

For a full demonstration, watch our step-by-step video on how to measure the leg opening on jeans featuring Maurice Malone of Williamsburg Garment Company.

📌 Subscribe for more denim fit and alteration guides!

This blog post is now optimized for readability, SEO, and usability with step-by-step instructions and custom drawings to assist readers. I’ll generate the requested illustrations now. Stay tuned! 🎨📏

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Close-up of wet raw denim jeans after washing, highlighting proper denim care techniques.
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Benzak Denim Developers explains thier process on how to wash raw denim jeans

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Washing raw denim has long been a topic of debate. Some purists believe in waiting as long as possible, while others argue that washing enhances the fabric’s character. But knowing how to wash raw denim jeans properly can make all the difference in maintaining the integrity of the denim while preserving those hard-earned fades.

In their latest video, Benzak Denim Developers demonstrate their recommended method for washing raw denim for the first time, using a well-worn pair of BO2 Straight jeans made from their 10-year anniversary denim. They cover everything from prepping your jeans before the wash to selecting the right machine settings—ensuring your denim stays in top shape without unnecessary shrinkage or fading.

If you’ve ever wondered when to wash, why washing matters, or most importantly, how to wash raw denim jeans, this video lays it all out. Watch below to see how a year of wear transforms after a proper wash.

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Hands measuring the inseam of a pair of jeans laid flat on a table, demonstrating the correct technique for how to measure the Inseam on jeans.
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How to Measure the Inseam on Jeans

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When it comes to buying jeans—especially online—getting the right inseam measurement is crucial for a proper fit. Whether you’re checking your size before ordering, comparing different brands, or preparing for hemming, measuring the inseam correctly ensures you won’t end up with jeans that are too short or too long.

In this guide, we’ll break down how to measure the inseam on jeans the right way, just like the professionals. Plus, watch our quick video tutorial featuring Williamsburg Garment Company’s own Maurice Malone, who walks you through the process step by step.

📏 What Is the Inseam on Jeans?

The inseam is the measurement from the crotch seam (where the inner thigh seams meet) down to the hem of the pant leg. It determines the length of your jeans and is one of the most important sizing details when shopping for denim.

🛠 Step-by-Step: How to Measure the Inseam on Jeans

Follow these steps to measure your inseam accurately:

1️⃣ Lay the Jeans Flat

  • Find a flat surface (like a table or the floor) to lay your jeans down.
  • Smooth out any wrinkles, but don’t stretch the fabric.

2️⃣ Start at the Center of the Crotch Seam

  • Place your measuring tape at the center of the crotch seam, between the two stitch lines of the flat-felled seam.
  • This is the center point of the flat-felled seams, which ensures an accurate starting position.

3️⃣ Follow the Natural Shape of the Leg

  • Extend the measuring tape down the inside of the leg, following the natural curve.
  • Avoid pulling the tape too tight or leaving slack—precision matters!

4️⃣ Measure to the Hem

  • Stop at the bottom edge of the hem and take note of the number.
  • This final measurement is your inseam length.

🚨 Common Mistakes to Avoid

🔴 Measuring in a straight line – The inseam follows the natural curve of the leg, so don’t measure at an angle or cut across the fabric.

🔴 Starting at the wrong point – Always measure from the center of the crotch seam, between the stitch lines, not from the seam line or a random point along the leg.

🔴 Ignoring fabric twist – Some jeans, especially washed or vintage styles, may have a slight twist. Follow the intended seam line, not any twisting caused by wear.

👖 Why Accurate Inseam Measurements Matter

If your jeans are too long or too short, it affects both comfort and style. Knowing your inseam helps when:
✅ Buying jeans online – Compare with the brand’s size chart to get the right fit.
✅ Altering your jeans – Get the perfect length when hemming.
✅ Finding the right cut – Different inseams work better for different styles (stacking, cuffing, or a clean break at the shoe).

⚠️ Don’t Assume the Inseam Length on the Tag Is Accurate

When you purchase a pair of jeans, it is highly likely that the inseam length on the tag is not correct. Most brands intentionally make their inseams longer than the labeled length, figuring it’s better to be longer than shorter or to allow for shrinkage after washing or alterations if needed. However, in some cases, brands may even produce inseams that are shorter than labeled—so always measure your jeans instead of trusting the tag.

⚠️ Be Careful When Ordering Hemming on Multiple Jeans

If you’re getting multiple pairs of jeans hemmed, avoid ordering the same inseam length across different styles without considering fit type and rise length.

  • Rise differences matter – Even if two jeans have the same waist measurement, a longer rise will result in an inseam that appears longer. Since both jeans sit at the same position on your body due to the identical waist measurement, the additional rise length means the hem will fall lower on your leg.
  • Waist opening affects inseam fit – The waist opening measurement generally determines where jeans sit on your body. For example, a larger waist measurement will sit lower on the hips compared to a smaller waist, even if the rise is the same. This lower placement causes the inseam to effectively be longer, as the jeans rest further down on your body.

These factors mean that jeans of the same labeled inseam can fit very differently based on their waist and rise measurements. To ensure consistency, always measure each pair individually before choosing a hemming length.

📌 Need Professional Denim Alterations?

At Williamsburg Garment Company, we specialize in professional denim hemming and alterations, ensuring your jeans fit perfectly—no matter the inseam length.

👉 Visit our site for expert hemming & alterations

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