Bad Tailoring

Subway billboard at Bedford Avenue Station featuring Williamsburg Garment Company’s denim tailoring and knitwear alteration ad above the L Train entrance.
/

Williamsburg Garment Co. Brings Real Denim Tailoring to Light

Even in 2025, many people still take their jeans to the dry cleaners for alterations. And most have never even considered that you can professionally hem or crop a T-shirt. We’re trying to change that.

This month, our ads began appearing across MTA subway entrances along the L Train, including key locations in Williamsburg, Brooklyn and Manhattan. It marks the start of a long-overdue public education campaign—not just for our brand, but for the concept of denim tailoring itself.

Most people simply don’t realize that tailoring jeans or knitwear is a specialized service. It’s not something every tailor does well, and it requires more than a sewing machine and thread. The right tools, machines, and knowledge matter. And unless you’ve spent time in the industry—or been burned by a bad alteration—you probably haven’t had a reason to think about it. Until now.


The Problem With Traditional Tailoring

Let’s start with jeans. When someone walks into a generic tailor and asks to take in the waist, two things usually happen: they either get visible darts along the back waistband or a mismatched seat seam that doesn’t look anything like the original construction.

Exterior view of jeans waistband showing a darted seam from a poorly executed waist alteration
Interior photo of a Levi’s jeans waistband showing poor tailoring with visible darts sewn into the seat area. This method is commonly used by traditional tailors who lack the correct equipment or knowledge for professional denim tailoring.
Inside view of jeans waistband showing bad tailoring with darts added to take in the waist
Interior photo of a Levi’s jeans waistband showing poor tailoring with visible darts sewn into the seat area. This method is commonly used by traditional tailors who lack the correct equipment or knowledge for professional denim tailoring.
How to take in jeans at the waist professionally using industrial feed-off-the-arm chainstitch machines. The image shows cutting, sewing, and a clean inside finish before and after without darts.
This photo demonstrates the steps involved in how to take in jeans at the waist professionally. The main image shows the seat seam being closed up using an industrial feed-off-the-arm chainstitch machine after trimming the waist from the inseam. In the top left, the tailor is shown cutting away excess fabric along the seam. The inset image in the upper right reveals the inside view of the final clean-finished result, completed without the use of darts, replicating a factory-style construction.

Some tailors try to mimic our method—removing excess fabric from the center back seat seam—but they don’t have the right equipment to finish the job correctly. Most jeans are sewn with a flat-felled, double-needle chainstitched seam that requires industrial machinery. At Williamsburg Garment Company, we use the same types of machines that denim factories do. Why? Because we make jeans—not just repair them—and we rebuild every altered section to factory specs.

The same applies to hemming. One of the more common gimmicks we see is the so-called “original hem” reattachment. Tailors cut the hem off, shorten the legs, and stitch the original hem piece back on. It creates an awkward, unnecessary seam above the hemline—and exists only because they can’t sew cleanly through multiple layers of denim.

What most people don’t realize is this: the wear, twist, and fade of the original hem naturally returns after one or two washes. With the right thread, tension, and stitch, the new hem will age just like the original—without tricks.


T-Shirts Are No Different

An example of Williamsburg Garment Company's professional t-shirt hemming service on a green cropped t-shirt shows the coverstitched sewing and shortened lower half of the cut-away part of the tee for before and after review.
Before and after view of a men’s green t-shirt customized into a women’s cropped t-shirt. The original hem is visible beside the cropped version, highlighting the factory-level coverstitch sewing on the inside of the garment.

If you’ve ever had a T-shirt hem curl, stiffen, or lose stretch after a tailoring job, chances are it was sewn with the wrong machine. Most shops don’t have a coverstitch machine—the industrial standard for hemming knits.

That’s why T-shirt hemming is part of our campaign too. Because tailoring knitwear also requires precision equipment. A proper hem on a tee should stretch, flex, and sit flat—just like it did before. And that takes the right tools.


Tailoring That’s Built for the Way People Live Now

The other part of this campaign is accessibility. People often ask, “Do I have to be in New York to use your services?” The answer is no. You don’t even have to leave home.

We’ve built our system so anyone in the U.S. can get professional denim and knitwear tailoring.

  • You order online
  • Using 2-way shipping, we email you a shipping label
  • You send your garments to us
  • We tailor them and ship them back

We like to say: if you can order a pizza online, you can order tailoring services from us. Just like choosing your toppings, crust style, and sides, our ordering pages walk you through clear dropdown menus to select exactly what you need—whether it’s hemming, tapering, waistband adjustments, or more.

And if you come across a term you’re unfamiliar with—like “inseam type” or “bar tack”—there’s likely a link right there to a help article, video, or visual example that breaks it down. We’ve built our platform to be intuitive, but we also understand that not everyone speaks denim. That’s why the information is always within reach.

Still have questions? Call us during business hours and you’ll speak to a real person—not an automated phone maze, robo-operator, or AI gatekeeper. Just denim people who know exactly what you’re talking about—and what your jeans need.


Putting Denim Tailoring Where People Can See It

These subway ads are the first step in a year-long marketing effort to bring denim tailoring out of the shadows. Until now, most people have either accepted poor alterations—or never even knew there was a better option.

So if you’re walking past the Bedford Avenue Station or through Manhattan along the L line, and you spot our billboard, know that it’s more than an ad. It’s a message:
There’s a better way to tailor jeans.
There’s a better way to crop your tees.
And you don’t need to be in New York to get it done right.

Photo shows what is a original hem alteration
Close-up of an original hem alteration
/

Avoid original hem alterations

An Original Hem alteration. What is it? And, why you should stay away from this type of hemming alteration.

People often fall for this alteration because they like the washed or worn edge on the hem and believe it will be lost while shorting their jeans. Most choose the Original Hem alteration because a tailor or seamstress offers the option, or they learned of this novel alteration that touts keeping the tattered hem by cutting it away and reattaching it to the jeans.

Tattered washed hem edge removed from jeans in order to reattach it when performing an Original Hem alteration
The leg opening from an Original Hem alteration

ORIGINAL HEM ALTERATIONS – DON’T DO IT!

First of all, it’s cheesy, hacky, corny, wack… There are many ways to describe this bad idea. We get lots of jeans from those who tried this alteration with requests to have their jeans rehabilitated and hemmed with traditional chain stitching. A word of advice, don’t waste your time and money damaging your jeans or wearing this embarrassing look.

Close-up of light washed jeans with original hem alterations
Close-up of light-washed jeans with less flexible original hem alterations

Patience pays off. There is really no reason to hack up your jeans. If you wash and wear regularly, the wavy lines and abrasion highlights will return to jeans after traditional chain stitch hemming. If you want to speed up the process or have a lot of shredding, try roughing up the edges of the hems with sandpaper, an electric grinder, or cut them up with a sharp blade.

To fix bad hemming, the original hem has to be cut away or opening -up, depending on sewing construction.
This cleaner sewn version was sent in for removal. The customer said it was annoying to wear, like a ring around their ankle.

Tailors and seamstresses use multiple techniques to make original hems. The results in our opinion are all bad. In every approach, a seamline is added where there was none before, losing the flexibility of the original leg bottom. Layers of fabrics are sewn together and create a stiff, unsightly, (depending on how heavy the fabric or which method is used) uncomfortable line above the new hem. Other less stiff techniques leave the inside of the jeans looking so hideous, that you would never want to turn up the jeans to make a cuff. Also, if you don’t tack the hem down (which leaves additional visible stitch lines) the hem can flip up exposing the embarrassing-looking sewing construction.

Mangled insides exhibited on Gustin selvedge jeans that are badly tailored with an Original Hem alteration
Example of a bad tailoring technique with an original hem alteration on Gustin selvedge jeans.
Bad DIY lockstitch hemming done by home sewing machine
Example of poor quality DIY lockstitch hemming done by home sewing machine.
/

Fixing Tailor’s & DIY Hemming Mistakes

We fix a lot of professional tailor shops and DIY home sewing machine hemming jobs. People learn the hard way that home sewing machines aren’t up to standard when working with denim and then send jeans to us for re-hemming. The thick seamlines are just too much for most domestic machines, so we often find thin broken needles stuck inside of hems.

Others discover that the difference between the quality of denim alterations from a suit tailor or local cleaners, and us is like night and day. That’s because the heavyweight fabric requires specialized machines and the workmanship required for denim is worlds apart from suits, fine trousers, dresses, and style of garments commonly worked on at most tailoring shops.

Lockstitch sewing on selvedge denim jeans hem
Lockstitch hemming is often what you get at Cleaners or Professional Tailoring shops.

Hems are commonly sewn with chain stitching at jeans factories. Most professional tailors will try to hem jeans on single-needle lockstitch machines, but they often can’t handle the thick fabric or seams. Again, home sewing machines aren’t nearly capable.

Chainstitch vs lockstitch hemming
Example of chainstitch vs lockstitch hemming compared. Chain stitching at the top of the photo, lockstitching at the bottom.

When it comes to stitching sizes, professional tailors will use threads that are a little heavier than the small thread sizes which must be used in domestic machines. But still, they usually don’t stock the thicker thread sizes commonly used with denim. The difference is plain to see when it comes to jeans- have them professionally altered by a denim specialist.