Alterations

Subway billboard at Bedford Avenue Station featuring Williamsburg Garment Company’s denim tailoring and knitwear alteration ad above the L Train entrance.
/

Williamsburg Garment Co. Brings Real Denim Tailoring to Light

Even in 2025, many people still take their jeans to the dry cleaners for alterations. And most have never even considered that you can professionally hem or crop a T-shirt. We’re trying to change that.

This month, our ads began appearing across MTA subway entrances along the L Train, including key locations in Williamsburg, Brooklyn and Manhattan. It marks the start of a long-overdue public education campaign—not just for our brand, but for the concept of denim tailoring itself.

Most people simply don’t realize that tailoring jeans or knitwear is a specialized service. It’s not something every tailor does well, and it requires more than a sewing machine and thread. The right tools, machines, and knowledge matter. And unless you’ve spent time in the industry—or been burned by a bad alteration—you probably haven’t had a reason to think about it. Until now.


The Problem With Traditional Tailoring

Let’s start with jeans. When someone walks into a generic tailor and asks to take in the waist, two things usually happen: they either get visible darts along the back waistband or a mismatched seat seam that doesn’t look anything like the original construction.

Exterior view of jeans waistband showing a darted seam from a poorly executed waist alteration
Interior photo of a Levi’s jeans waistband showing poor tailoring with visible darts sewn into the seat area. This method is commonly used by traditional tailors who lack the correct equipment or knowledge for professional denim tailoring.
Inside view of jeans waistband showing bad tailoring with darts added to take in the waist
Interior photo of a Levi’s jeans waistband showing poor tailoring with visible darts sewn into the seat area. This method is commonly used by traditional tailors who lack the correct equipment or knowledge for professional denim tailoring.
How to take in jeans at the waist professionally using industrial feed-off-the-arm chainstitch machines. The image shows cutting, sewing, and a clean inside finish before and after without darts.
This photo demonstrates the steps involved in how to take in jeans at the waist professionally. The main image shows the seat seam being closed up using an industrial feed-off-the-arm chainstitch machine after trimming the waist from the inseam. In the top left, the tailor is shown cutting away excess fabric along the seam. The inset image in the upper right reveals the inside view of the final clean-finished result, completed without the use of darts, replicating a factory-style construction.

Some tailors try to mimic our method—removing excess fabric from the center back seat seam—but they don’t have the right equipment to finish the job correctly. Most jeans are sewn with a flat-felled, double-needle chainstitched seam that requires industrial machinery. At Williamsburg Garment Company, we use the same types of machines that denim factories do. Why? Because we make jeans—not just repair them—and we rebuild every altered section to factory specs.

The same applies to hemming. One of the more common gimmicks we see is the so-called “original hem” reattachment. Tailors cut the hem off, shorten the legs, and stitch the original hem piece back on. It creates an awkward, unnecessary seam above the hemline—and exists only because they can’t sew cleanly through multiple layers of denim.

What most people don’t realize is this: the wear, twist, and fade of the original hem naturally returns after one or two washes. With the right thread, tension, and stitch, the new hem will age just like the original—without tricks.


T-Shirts Are No Different

An example of Williamsburg Garment Company's professional t-shirt hemming service on a green cropped t-shirt shows the coverstitched sewing and shortened lower half of the cut-away part of the tee for before and after review.
Before and after view of a men’s green t-shirt customized into a women’s cropped t-shirt. The original hem is visible beside the cropped version, highlighting the factory-level coverstitch sewing on the inside of the garment.

If you’ve ever had a T-shirt hem curl, stiffen, or lose stretch after a tailoring job, chances are it was sewn with the wrong machine. Most shops don’t have a coverstitch machine—the industrial standard for hemming knits.

That’s why T-shirt hemming is part of our campaign too. Because tailoring knitwear also requires precision equipment. A proper hem on a tee should stretch, flex, and sit flat—just like it did before. And that takes the right tools.


Tailoring That’s Built for the Way People Live Now

The other part of this campaign is accessibility. People often ask, “Do I have to be in New York to use your services?” The answer is no. You don’t even have to leave home.

We’ve built our system so anyone in the U.S. can get professional denim and knitwear tailoring.

  • You order online
  • Using 2-way shipping, we email you a shipping label
  • You send your garments to us
  • We tailor them and ship them back

We like to say: if you can order a pizza online, you can order tailoring services from us. Just like choosing your toppings, crust style, and sides, our ordering pages walk you through clear dropdown menus to select exactly what you need—whether it’s hemming, tapering, waistband adjustments, or more.

And if you come across a term you’re unfamiliar with—like “inseam type” or “bar tack”—there’s likely a link right there to a help article, video, or visual example that breaks it down. We’ve built our platform to be intuitive, but we also understand that not everyone speaks denim. That’s why the information is always within reach.

Still have questions? Call us during business hours and you’ll speak to a real person—not an automated phone maze, robo-operator, or AI gatekeeper. Just denim people who know exactly what you’re talking about—and what your jeans need.


Putting Denim Tailoring Where People Can See It

These subway ads are the first step in a year-long marketing effort to bring denim tailoring out of the shadows. Until now, most people have either accepted poor alterations—or never even knew there was a better option.

So if you’re walking past the Bedford Avenue Station or through Manhattan along the L line, and you spot our billboard, know that it’s more than an ad. It’s a message:
There’s a better way to tailor jeans.
There’s a better way to crop your tees.
And you don’t need to be in New York to get it done right.

In a close-up of a jeans leg with twisting, denim designer Maurice Malone explains why a common denim issue is caused, either by shrinkage or improper sewing.
Denim designer Maurice Malone explains why shrinkage or incorrect sewing causes a common denim issue in a close-up of a twisting jeans leg.
/

Why are the legs on my jeans twisting and how to fix it

Got a twisted leg on your jeans? If one leg seam always seems to drift to the front or back, you’re dealing with a classic issue called “leg twist.” It’s a common problem in denim, often caused by fabric shrinkage or improper sewing.

In our first video, I explain the two main reasons why jeans legs twist: poor sewing at the factory and uneven fabric shrinkage, or sometimes a mix of both.

In this video, I’ll show you exactly how we professionally fix a twisted leg on jeans, ensuring that they fit comfortably with seams that stay straight. Using expert techniques and specialized machinery, we rework the leg (tapering it) to correct the twist, making your jeans feel just right again.

Watch as I walk you through the step-by-step process of how to identify leg twist, why it happens, and what it takes to fix leg twist in jeans effectively.

Whether you’re curious about denim alterations, experiencing a twisted leg on your favorite jeans, or simply want to know how to get your jeans looking right, this video is for you!

A pair of jeans showing a newly attached replacement belt loop beside the original worn, detached loop, highlighting professional repair work by the Williamsburg Garment Company's belt loop repair service.
/

Getting replacement belt loops done right

Repairing Belt Loops: Why Quality Matters

Belt loops are one of those essential details on your pants that you probably don’t think about—until one rips off, that is. Whether you’re dealing with jeans, workwear, or your favorite pair of chinos, a broken belt loop can be a real inconvenience. And while you might think, “I can sew that back on myself,” replacing belt loops isn’t as straightforward as it seems.

Sure, home sewing kits and patch jobs might seem like a quick solution, but the reality is that unless you’ve got the right tools and techniques, the results can look sloppy. A DIY job often lacks the durability of professional stitching, leading to issues like weak attachment, uneven loops, or mismatched stitching. Similarly, while some tailors may offer repairs, they often work with lighter fabrics and simple straight stitching, which isn’t quite suitable for the heavy-duty wear of jeans or workwear.

For example, jeans and other tough materials like twill, canvas, or corduroy use a special attachment called a bar tack to secure belt loops. This technique reinforces the stress points, making them durable enough for everyday wear and tear. A typical tailor using a standard sewing machine may not have the equipment to replicate this level of strength.

When done correctly, replacing a belt loop involves using industrial-grade machinery that can handle thick fabric layers, particularly at the seam, where multiple layers overlap. For as little as $10, you can reattach your broken loops at Williamsburg Garment Company, and for $20, new replacement loops can be crafted and installed.

To learn more about our professional belt loop repair service, visit our page for additional details on how we can help you get your pants back in top shape without the hassle of DIY fixes or poor-quality repairs.

By leaving it to the pros, you ensure a clean, durable fix that blends seamlessly with your garment, maintaining its integrity and style for the long haul.

Photo of denim designer Maurice Malone working on taking in the waist of a pair of jeans at his 67 West Street, Greenpoint, Brooklyn, studio.
/

Expert Denim Tailoring at 67 West Street: Stridewise visits our studio to learn how we take in the waist of jeans

Nick English of Stridewise dropped by our 67 West Street studio in the heart of Greenpoint, Brooklyn, entrusting us—the nation’s top-tier denim alteration specialists—with refining the fit of his jeans at the waist. Dive into our expert process through this video, and if you’re plotting a course to our doorstep, we’ve included some handy navigation tips to guide you right to us.

Don’t miss Nick’s website, where he explores boots and other gear. For denim enthusiasts, there’s a must-read post titled ‘Best Selvedge Denim.

The leg opening of a pair of jeans is shown on a table, indicating how the inseam of jeans with twisted legs is about to be measured. The chain-stitched hem has a roping effect as well.
/

How to measure the inseam of jeans with twisted legs

The goal of this tutorial video is to walk you through the complex process of determining the inseam of twisted-leg jeans. In contrast to measuring the inseam on a pair of typical jeans or pants, dealing with twisted legs adds an additional level of complication. When the legs of the jeans wrap around to the opposite side, the dilemma of whether to follow the inseam line arises.

The short answer is no. The key is to follow the natural shape of the jeans as though there were no twist. In this video, we show you step-by-step how to do this.

In addition, we explore some of the frequent mistakes that tailors and clients requesting hemming alterations make while shortening the inseam. This guide will educate you on why using a general request like “take off 2 inches” while asking for a hemming service may not be the best choice. Similar to this, we show how this approach can result in mistakes when shortening jeans for tailors who often align the hems of jeans before simply cutting them. Have a look at our video to enhance your understanding and skills with denim alterations.

The hem of tailored jeans next to parts of the original leg size shows an example of what it means to have "tapered jeans alterations."
This photo is an example of "tapered jeans alterations." It shows the hem of a pair of selvedge jeans that have been tapered from the inseam to narrow the leg opening. Next to the resized legs of the jeans is the original, wider portion of the jeans leg and discarded denim fabric, which has been cut away from the garment to decrease the leg size.
/

What are tapered jeans and pants?

There are two meanings when it comes to “tapered” as related to jeans, pants, and other garments designed to wear over the legs.

  1. Related to alterations or tailoring: The term “tapered jeans” and “tapered pants” refer to garment bottoms worn over the legs that have been altered to narrow the shape of the legs.
  2. Related to the design or style of a garment: It’s a jean or pant with a leg that narrows dramatically from the knee to the leg opening. Tapered clothing should not be confused with slim-fit or other jeans and pants with legs that gradually decrease in size from the knee to the leg opening.

Example of use (related to alterations): I had my jeans tapered because the legs were too baggy.

Raw denim selvedge jeans that have been tapered using the tapering alterations process to narrow the leg shape. The excess denim from the jeans can be seen in front of the jeans.
Selvedge jeans that have been tapered using the tapering alterations process to narrow the leg shape while shortening the inseam length. The excess denim from the jeans can be seen in the front of the jeans.

Example of use (related to design or style): I bought tapered jeans because I wanted the leg opening to be small enough that the hem wouldn’t cover my shoes.

Lightwash tapered American-made jeans for women by Williamsburg Garment Company
Women’s boyfriend tapered fit jeans
Hope Street men's tapered American-made jeans
Men’s Hope Street tapered jeans
1 2 3